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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:

Description

When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.
Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

L->R:

Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:

A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.

A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.

Ribbon Area
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. The Troutman/Rodent, M5 R, 5p, 800', gear.
D. Negligent Behavior, WI5- M6 R? 7p, 1000'.
E. Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard), 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
F. Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene, M5-6 PG-13, 5p, 1000', gear.
G. Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Rusty Cage, M7 PG-13, 5p, 800', bolts, pins, & gear.
I. Vulgar Display of Power, M6, 1p, 220', bolts & gear.
J. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
K. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
L. Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It, IV 5.10 WI3 M6 R, 7p, 1300', gear.
M. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
N. Racing Stripe (Left), WI4 M4-5, 2p, 300', gear.
O. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.

Talisman area
P. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
Q. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
RQ. Hairy Devil, WI5+ M6-7, 3p, 400', pins, screws, gear.
S. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.

T. Subterfuge, M6-7+, 3p, 400', screws, gear, & bolts.

U. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.

Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.

Skylight area
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Lola's Leap, M6-, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
G. Paco's Chewy , M5+, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
I. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.

J. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
K. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
L. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
M. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.

N. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.

O. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
P. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
Q1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
Q2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.

R. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.

S. Chopped Suey, 5.7 M4 WI4 PG-13, 1p, 160', gear & screws.
T. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
U. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.
V. Czech Mate, M5, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

W. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
X. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
Y. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.

Z. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.

AA. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
BB. Unknown, M7, .

CC. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.

DD. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
EE. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
FF. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
GG. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.

Poser's Lounge
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.

F. Blood and Spit, M8 R, 2p, 250', gear.

G. Just Another Duncan Route aka Just Another Duncan Route, WI4-5 M6, 5p, 500', gear.

H. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
I. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.

Getting There

Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.

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doligo  
+1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left. Mar 2, 2013
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine.

Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past. Someone took our packs (which were tucked away well off the road) and filled them to the brim with snow while we climbed Skylight, soaking my partners camera gear. We were the only climbers in the area all day (though many trucks went back and forth from the mine), meaning someone went out of their way. I believe this was the second day after the "new" sign had been erected. Feb 26, 2013
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray? Feb 8, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Thanks Leo, maybe I should leave this question up here because I wasn't certain what "Senator Gulch" was in the previous comments. We used to call that Hidden Falls, along with the plethora of "Hidden Falls" on the planet. Jan 8, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Scott, I believe you are referring to Senator Gulch. If so, it's on private land. Access has been an issue. Previously, there was a description & the owners requested we delete the information (see above)...even though it is already described in other ice guidebooks. Jan 8, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
What is the name of the frozen waterfall on the right side of the road, back in the little side drainage,at the base of the switchbacks?
Is it listed here? what's it rated? Seemed like about 90ft tall. Jan 8, 2008
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Bill Ducat wrote us to say: "Please remove all references to the conditions of Senator Gulch. My family owns the land, and the climb is closed for liability reasons. Thanks, we are starting to get very annoyed about all the people walking by our "posted" signs, and good condition reports do not help the situation :) Do you have any recommendations on how we could get the word out that we are serious about the falls being closed?" Apr 5, 2002
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
Report from Jim Donini: Skylight is in; first pitch is all ice. Second pitch is thin but do-able. Choppo's is fat. Nothing going on by the Ribbon/Bridalveil. Dec 7, 2001

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