Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8-9 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6-7 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 Steep Snow X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Unknown Drytool Route S M4
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Elevation: 10,221 ft
GPS: 37.985, -107.701 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 74,721 total · 324/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details


When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.


Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:

A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.

A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.

Ribbon Area
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. The Troutman/Rodent, M5 R, 5p, 800', gear.
D. Negligent Behavior, WI5- M6 R? 7p, 1000'.
E. Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard), 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
F. Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene, M5-6 PG-13, 5p, 1000', gear.
G. Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Rusty Cage, M7 PG-13, 5p, 800', bolts, pins, & gear.
I. Vulgar Display of Power, M6, 1p, 220', bolts & gear.
J. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
K. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
L. Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It, IV 5.10 WI3 M6 R, 7p, 1300', gear.
M. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
N. Racing Stripe (Left), WI4 M4-5, 2p, 300', gear.
O. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.

Talisman area
P. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
Q. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
RQ. Hairy Devil, WI5+ M6-7, 3p, 400', pins, screws, gear.
S. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.

T. Subterfuge, M6-7+, 3p, 400', screws, gear, & bolts.

U. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.

Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.

Skylight area
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Lola's Leap, M6-, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
G. Paco's Chewy , M5+, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
I. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.

J. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
K. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
L. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
M. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.

N. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.

O. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
P. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
Q1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
Q2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.

R. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.

S. Chopped Suey, 5.7 M4 WI4 PG-13, 1p, 160', gear & screws.
T. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
U. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.
V. Czech Mate, M5, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

W. Unknown Drytool Route, M4, 1p, 50', bolts.
X. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
Y. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
Z. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.

AA. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.

BB. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
CC. Unknown, M7, .

DD. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.

EE. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
FF. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
GG. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
HH. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.

Poser's Lounge
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.

F. Blood and Spit, M8 R, 2p, 250', gear.

G. Just Another Duncan Route aka Just Another Duncan Route, WI4-5 M6, 5p, 500', gear.

H. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
I. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.

Getting There

Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.

57 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Camp Bird Road Change
Type:  to 
Sort by:   then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Camp Bird Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-6 M5+ R
Killer Pillar
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Slip Sliding Away
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4 R
Chockstone Chimney
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Slippery When Wet
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chock Up Another One
Trad, Ice
WI4+ M4-5
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Choppo's Chimney
Trad, Ice
WI5 M5
Bird Brain Boulevard
Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
WI5-6 M6
The Talisman
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
The Ribbon
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4+ M5
Tourist Trap
Mixed, Ice
WI5+ M8
Shattered Dreams
Mixed, Ice
Senator Gulch
Trad, TR, Ice
Mile 4
Sport, Mixed
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 Steep Snow X
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line…
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Killer Pillar
WI5-6 M5+ R Trad, Mixed, Ice
Slip Sliding Away
WI4- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chockstone Chimney
WI3-4 R Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Slippery When Wet
WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chock Up Another One
WI3-4 Trad, Ice
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Choppo's Chimney
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Bird Brain Boulevard
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
The Talisman
WI5-6 M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
The Ribbon
WI4 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Tourist Trap
WI4+ M5 Mixed, Ice
Shattered Dreams
WI5+ M8 Mixed, Ice
Senator Gulch
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Mile 4
M6 Sport, Mixed
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 Steep Snow X Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 8 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Camp Bird Road »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
Report from Jim Donini: Skylight is in; first pitch is all ice. Second pitch is thin but do-able. Choppo's is fat. Nothing going on by the Ribbon/Bridalveil. Dec 7, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
Michael Komarnitsky   Seattle, WA  
Bill Ducat wrote us to say: "Please remove all references to the conditions of Senator Gulch. My family owns the land, and the climb is closed for liability reasons. Thanks, we are starting to get very annoyed about all the people walking by our "posted" signs, and good condition reports do not help the situation :) Do you have any recommendations on how we could get the word out that we are serious about the falls being closed?" Apr 5, 2002
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
What is the name of the frozen waterfall on the right side of the road, back in the little side drainage,at the base of the switchbacks?
Is it listed here? what's it rated? Seemed like about 90ft tall. Jan 8, 2008
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Scott, I believe you are referring to Senator Gulch. If so, it's on private land. Access has been an issue. Previously, there was a description & the owners requested we delete the information (see above)...even though it is already described in other ice guidebooks. Jan 8, 2008
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Thanks Leo, maybe I should leave this question up here because I wasn't certain what "Senator Gulch" was in the previous comments. We used to call that Hidden Falls, along with the plethora of "Hidden Falls" on the planet. Jan 8, 2008
Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
By "town" in the description, I assume this means Ouray? Feb 8, 2008
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Some (new) potential access issues are brewing up the road with the mine.

Keep a closer eye on your gear when leaving it at the base of a route than you might have in the past. Someone took our packs (which were tucked away well off the road) and filled them to the brim with snow while we climbed Skylight, soaking my partners camera gear. We were the only climbers in the area all day (though many trucks went back and forth from the mine), meaning someone went out of their way. I believe this was the second day after the "new" sign had been erected. Feb 26, 2013
+1 what Erik said, please read the Watch article cited above. Please yield to the traffic and please do not park right in front of the "Road Closed" gate, but rather park in the designated parking pullout on the left. Mar 2, 2013

More About Camp Bird Road

What's New
Guidebooks (9)

All Photos Within Camp Bird Road (383)

Most Popular · Newest · Random