Elevation: 10,221 ft
GPS: 37.985, -107.701 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 90,768 total · 377/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

When you get tired of the 100 foots pitches, the gaggle of classes, and all the telephoto lenses in the Uncompaghre Gorge, keep heading up the road to the beautiful lines that surround the Camp Bird Road. There's stuff for everybody here with easy and sunny lines like Chockstone Chimney and Slip Slidin' Away to mega classics like Birdbrain Boulevard. If it's cold you can climb in the sun, if the weather is moderate and your feelin' frisky, head into the shade and try Birdbrain.

L->R:

Starting looking down Camp Bird Mine Road:

A. Wake Up Call, M5+ R, 5p, 900', gear.
B. Tasty Talks, 8 M5 R, 8p, 1400', gear.

A. Hangover Helper, WI5, 1p, 110'.

Ribbon Area
A. Fall Creek, WI4, 1000'.
B. Out of the Mainstream, WI4-5, 1100'.
C. The Troutman/Rodent, M5 R, 5p, 800', gear.
D. Negligent Behavior, WI5- M6 R? 7p, 1000'.
E. Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard), 10 WI4-5 M6, 8p, 1200', gear.
F. Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene, M5-6 PG-13, 5p, 1000', gear.
G. Desperado , M6, 4p, 800', gear.
H. Rusty Cage, M7 PG-13, 5p, 800', bolts, pins, & gear.
I. Vulgar Display of Power, M6, 1p, 220', bolts & gear.
J. The Ribbon, WI4, 4p, 500'.
K. Birdbrain Boulevard, WI5 M5-6, 7p, 1100'.
L. Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It, IV 5.10 WI3 M6 R, 7p, 1300', gear.
M. Dirty Minds, 9 M6, 4p, 800', gear.
N. Racing Stripe (Left), WI4 M4-5, 2p, 300', gear.
O. Racing Stripe (Right), WI5 M6, 4p, 800', gear.

Talisman area
P. O'Donnell Route, WI4, 2p, 225'.
Q. The Demon, WI6 M7 variation.
RQ. Hairy Devil, WI5+ M6-7, 3p, 400', pins, screws, gear.
S. The Talisman, WI6+ M7. 3p, 600'.

T. Subterfuge, M6-7+, 3p, 400', screws, gear, & bolts.

U. Camp Bird Mine Pillars, WI4-5, 100'.

Sneffels Creek Canyon Area
A. Scenic Cruise, WI4, 130'.
B. Sneffels Creek Sheet, WI4, 100'.
C. Sneffles Creek Pillar, WI5, 50'.
D. Potosi Peak Couloirs, WI4-5, 1000'.

Skylight area
A? Thin Slice, WI4-5, 2p, 300'.
B? 99 Problems, M5-, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Chockstone Chimney, WI3-4 R, 2p.
above B. Skillet's Revenge, WI4, 1p, 50'.
D. M7 Crack, M7, 1p, 110, gear.
E. Lola's Leap, M6-, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Mile 4, M6, 1p, 30', bolts.
G. Paco's Chewy , M5+, 1p, 40', bolts.
H. Weak and the Weary, 8 M5+ R, 2p, 300', gear.
I. Chock Up Another One, WI3-4, 1p, 200'.

J. AC/DC, WI5+ M6, 200'.
K. M6 Corner, WI4+ M6, 2p, 200'.
L. Slippery When Wet, WI4, 1-2p, 100'.
M. Heart of Darkness, WI5, 160'.

N. Slip Slidin' Away, WI4, 2p, 200'.

O. Shattered Dreams, WI5+ M8, 1p, 70'.
P. Fractured Fairytales, M6+, 1p, 100'.
Q1. The Sky is Falling, M9+, 1p, 90'.
Q2. Tourist Trap, WI4-5 M5, 1p, 80'.

R. Another Climb, WI3-4, 100'.

S. Chopped Suey, 5.7 M4 WI4 PG-13, 1p, 160', gear & screws.
T. Choppo's Chimney, WI4-5, 1p, 190'.
U. Killer Pillar, WI5+ M5+ R, 1p, 160'.
V. Czech Mate, M5, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.

W. Unknown Drytool Route, M4, 1p, 50', bolts.
X. Going Retro, M6, 1p, 50'.
Y. The Local Scoop, M9, 1p, 50'.
Z. The Skylight, WI5 M5, 3p, 300'.

AA. Dumpster Diver, M5, 1p, 55'.

BB. Maid to Order, M7+, 1p, 60'.
CC. Unknown, M7, .

DD. The Cleft, WI3, 1p, 200'.

EE. Road Warrior aka Duncan's Other Route, WI4-5 M6, 200'.
FF. Sans Nom, WI4 M5, 220'.
GG. Ass in Space, M8, 80'.
HH. Dirty Bird, WI3 M9-, 1p, 110', screws & bolts.

Poser's Lounge
A. Cavegina, M8+, 1p, 60'.
B. Troglodyte, M9, 1p, 100'.
C. Goldline, M10, 1p, 100'.
D. Fistful of Steel, M10, 1p, 100'.
E. Cinammon & Cider, M11, 1p.

F. Blood and Spit, M8 R, 2p, 250', gear.

G. Just Another Duncan Route aka Just Another Duncan Route, WI4-5 M6, 5p, 500', gear.

H. Senator Gulch, WI3-4, 1p, 100', open!
I. Weekhawken Creek, WI3-5.

Getting There

Head South from town (Ouray) and turn off onto the Camp Bird Road within 1/2 mile. This road can be death so watch out. Most of the time the county plows it but when the avalanches are booming there's nothing to do but hang out at the Groundskeeper for a third round of 'spro or head to the Gorge. Follow the CB road to where it's usually closed at Senator Gulch. 1/2 mile of hiking up the moderate road will get you to the Skylight area. If you're heading to the Ribbon/Birdbrain area, drop down into the main drainage then contour up to the start of the routes. You did check the avalanche danger, didn't you? They just boom down from the collection basin directly above the Ribbon so if you didn't get recent conditions while in town, it's not a bad idea to hike up the road for a visual. At worst, you'll wast five minutes--at best, you'll save your life.

57 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Camp Bird Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI5-6 M5+ R
 12
Killer Pillar
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI4-
 76
Slip Sliding Away
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4 R
 63
Chockstone Chimney
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI4
 74
Slippery When Wet
Trad, Ice 2 pitches
WI3-4
 41
Chock Up Another One
Trad, Ice
WI4+ M4-5
 117
Skylight
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4+
 93
Choppo's Chimney (aka Chappo's C…
Trad, Ice
WI5 M5
 46
Bird Brain Boulevard
Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
WI5-6 M6
 20
The Talisman
Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 70
The Ribbon
Trad, Ice 4 pitches
WI4+ M5
 15
Tourist Trap
Mixed, Ice
WI5+ M8
 6
Shattered Dreams
Mixed, Ice
WI3-4
 53
Senator Gulch
Trad, TR, Ice
M6
 31
Mile 4
Sport, Mixed
M7 PG13
 5
Rusty Cage
Trad, Mixed 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Killer Pillar
 12
WI5-6 M5+ R Trad, Mixed, Ice
Slip Sliding Away
 76
WI4- Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chockstone Chimney
 63
WI3-4 R Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Slippery When Wet
 74
WI4 Trad, Ice 2 pitches
Chock Up Another One
 41
WI3-4 Trad, Ice
Skylight
 117
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
Choppo's Chimney (aka Chapp…
 93
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Bird Brain Boulevard
 46
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice 7 pitches
The Talisman
 20
WI5-6 M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice 3 pitches
The Ribbon
 70
WI4 Trad, Ice 4 pitches
Tourist Trap
 15
WI4+ M5 Mixed, Ice
Shattered Dreams
 6
WI5+ M8 Mixed, Ice
Senator Gulch
 53
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Mile 4
 31
M6 Sport, Mixed
Rusty Cage
 5
M7 PG13 Trad, Mixed 5 pitches
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