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Routes in Camp Bird Road
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| Type: | Sport, Mixed, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 654 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Steve House on Dec 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic
Details
Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in:
watchnewspapers.com/view/fu…
Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
watchnewspapers.com/view/fu…
Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
Description
This is the right-hand of two corners visible on the prominent rock rib immediately uphill (south) of Choppo's Chimney.
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Location
This is the right, most obvious, of two corners on left side of the rock buttress south (uphill) of Choppo's Chimney.
Scramble (no protection) up the start of the "Talisman Simulator" gully and then up and right onto the buttress. It is also possible to scramble up from the Choppo's side, but I think it's easier from the Simulator side.
There are two bolts on the nice ledge on the center of the buttress. Locate these bolts which are intended for the belayer.
From the starting anchor, climb up easily for about a body-length to the left of the anchor. Locate the first bolts above you.
Climb the face for about 30 feet to access the start of the corner. Once in the corner (bolts on right wall), simply climb the left-facing, white rock corner up to the big ledge on the edge of the buttress and another 2 bolt belay anchor. It's 30 meters/100' to here.
From this anchor, the second pitch moves up and left across the face to climb the small crack. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of this short 15-meter/50-foot pitch. If you can't find the anchor because of snow (the rock isn't that steep here at the top), you can find a sling around the tree up about 40' higher and you can still get back to the anchor on the ledge.
If you have enough draws/slings, you can combine the two pitches into one lead.
This route is set up so you can do it with a single 60 meter rope.
Scramble (no protection) up the start of the "Talisman Simulator" gully and then up and right onto the buttress. It is also possible to scramble up from the Choppo's side, but I think it's easier from the Simulator side.
There are two bolts on the nice ledge on the center of the buttress. Locate these bolts which are intended for the belayer.
From the starting anchor, climb up easily for about a body-length to the left of the anchor. Locate the first bolts above you.
Climb the face for about 30 feet to access the start of the corner. Once in the corner (bolts on right wall), simply climb the left-facing, white rock corner up to the big ledge on the edge of the buttress and another 2 bolt belay anchor. It's 30 meters/100' to here.
From this anchor, the second pitch moves up and left across the face to climb the small crack. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of this short 15-meter/50-foot pitch. If you can't find the anchor because of snow (the rock isn't that steep here at the top), you can find a sling around the tree up about 40' higher and you can still get back to the anchor on the ledge.
If you have enough draws/slings, you can combine the two pitches into one lead.
This route is set up so you can do it with a single 60 meter rope.
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