Type: Mixed, Ice, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,055 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 5, 2008
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

Climb the ice in the dihedral immediately right of Slip Slidin' Away up to the big roof and the end of the ice. Traverse out right along a horizontal with fixed pins to a fixed pin anchor. There is a ledge as big as a table top from which to belay. Continue up the pockets and thin cracks right above the belay or step right ten feet and go up the ice-filled chimney that has some little ice hummocks. Rock pro is needed for sure. One can angle up and left and find more ice out left or just go straight up.

There are three variations/possibilities.

You have to climb the second pitch no matter what the conditions of the ice. If you can climb the traverse out of the first pitch of Tourist Trap, you climb the second pitch. This is a two pitch climb.

Most rap from here, but in cooler years, you may be able to add another pitch.

This is a decent route worth doing if you are in the area.

Location

Up the Camp Bird rd from Choppo's in the same gully as Slip Slidin' Away.

Protection

Screws for the ice, a cam or two to supplement the pins towards the end (optional). Doubles and a few long slings helpful to minimize rope drag.
Brandon Groza
Bend, OR
Brandon Groza   Bend, OR
Tourist Trap is the last climb in the video:

vimeo.com/56726472 Jan 4, 2013
Kurt Ross
  WI5- M5
Kurt Ross  
  WI5- M5
Sick vid, Brandon! Jan 6, 2013
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale, CO
Awesome outing! Jan 30, 2017
The first piton on the traverse fell out today, and we didn't have a hammer to put it back in. It protects fine with a gray and/or blue Camalot. It's a ways to the second piton, and you'd have a nasty pendulum if you fell on lead, or following, without one of those. Jan 27, 2019