Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Steve House/Steven Van Sickle|
|Page Views:||3,087 total · 33/month|
|Shared By:||Steven VanSickle on Jan 19, 2014|
|Admins:||Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
From the top of the approach/snow slope, climb up the gully for 50 feet (1 bolt), and then move right onto the the red slab that leads you into the Rusty Cage red line of rock which is the route. Clip the second bolt soon after leaving the main gully, a third bolt not much further on, and place a stubby screw in the one bit of ice on the route before climbing into easier terrain. The route steepens again, and one bolt protects an easier-version of what is to come, stemming and dry tooling. Exit left to a small ledge and two bolts on the far left side of the ledge under a tiny spruce tree and a protective roof.
Pitch 2. M6, 30m, 5 bolts.
Step down and right into the groove and continue to follow the rusty strip. The first bolt is a self-drive and was the only bolt placed on lead on this pitch initially. Climb past the steep bulge into easier terrain. At the base of a steep and rotten roof look left and climb to a 2-bolt anchor under a roof with a very slopey, but very protected, belay stance.
Pitch 3. M6. 50m, 6 bolts.
Follow the red strip of rock up and through the rotten roof. Pull fun steep moves right around the corner, now protected by bolts, and get back into the groove and climb up towards another vertical wall. A bolt (often covered by snow) in the face to the right of the corner points the way. After stemming high, step right around the corner with the bolt near your waist. Continue up the groove another 50 feet, and keep an eye out for a small ledge with two belay bolts fifteen feet right of the groove. Hint, the belay is not on the big horizontal snow ledge. If you get there, you went to far.... The belay is placed here as it's the safest location from rockfall we could find.
Pitch 4. M7, 50m, 8 bolts.
The crux pitch. Head straight up the groove, do some delicate moves that lead you into the rusty cage. Stem your way out of the rusty cage (a 0.75 is nice before turning the roof). Belay off bolts on the left.
Pitch 5, M5, 55m, 3 bolts.
Finish up the groove with a surprisingly difficult rock step and finally a ice/snow slope to a tree.