Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Donald, Jeff Lowe, David Breashears, 1975
Page Views: 17,503 total · 74/month
Shared By: Malcolm Daly on Nov 2, 2001
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

About 15 minutes up the road from where you leave your car below Senator Gulch, you'll start to see ice on your right. Most of it forms up in clefts in the cliff. The Skylight is the prominent double-tiered route with the big chockstone defending the top of the first tier. Belay well off the road. The mine is now open and big trucks and snowplows roar by on a regular basis. They love scaring climbers.

P1 is easier than it looks and climbs the sometimes thin ice to the chockstone. Plug in a cam and layback left around it. Belay on a ledge to the right of the chockstone, out of the way of the ice-bombs that are about to come down.

P2 is usually harder than it looks and climbs the ice in the squeeze chimney to the tree at it's top. It's usually wet so bring belay gloves for the top unless it's really sunny.

Rap the route if there's nobody coming up behind you. There are slings around the tree at the top. Choppo's is a good alternate descent if The Skylight is occupied. If you don't have 2 ropes you can walk off by thrashing carefully to the left, over to Chockstone Gully.

Protection

A couple of hand-sized cams for P1 and the first belay. If P1 is mixed, a yellow Alien & #2 Camalot can help. 6-8 ice screws for the ice part. 2, 50m ropes for the descent.

Photos