Type: Trad, Mixed, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 37.98459, -107.70051
FA: 2014, with hardware updates in 2019
Page Views: 827 total · 11/month
Shared By: Steve House on Sep 25, 2019
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Head up towards Choppo's Chimney and Killer Pillar for about 50', and then scramble up (slightly awkward in one spot), and move right onto the big ledge that is about 50' above the road. If you walk past the base of this route, there is a two-bolt anchor on the front of the big block. It is not necessary to belay here (it wasn't here when route was first climbed), but I recommend it because it keeps the belayer well out of the way in case of rockfall.

The crux of the first pitch is right off the ground, but it can be well protected with cams. Continue to the ledge (80' or so). There is a good two-bolt anchor which I added summer 2019 (all bolts on this route are stainless, 3.5" Fixe hardware).

Continue up the second pitch. Originally (due to lack of protection), I went right at the fixed angle (left for posterity) over to the treed ledge and then fought rope drag to the top. In 2019, I re-climbed this pitch and added a number of bolts to this pitch, 2 for the original section above the ledge (which was bad gear before) and a few more for the direct finish. This keeps the grade moderate, and it's well-protected.

There is a 2 bolt anchor at the top on the left about 15 feet above the crux.

From the top, you can get off in 2 raps with a single 60m.

Grade: I'm horrible at M-grades. I think it is mostly M5 except for the well-protected moves that finish the second pitch which are M6, maybe easy M7.

Note: on the far left side of the ledge at the top of the first pitch, there is another bolted anchor for rapping and/or toproping the chossy drytooling corner below it which is called Czech Indirect.

Location Suggest change

This is right of Czech Mate (and Choppo's/Killer Pillar).

Protection Suggest change

1.5-2 sets of cams #0.2-3 Camalot sizes.

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