Type: Trad, Mixed, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,627 total · 22/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

A direct start is recommended for a full value lead. If you don't like that run out sort of thing, then you can traverse in from the left at a single bolt belay.

For the direct start, start up a faint seam near the first big chockstone on Chockstone Chimney.

Climb up with not great gear, but the climbing is pretty easy...maybe M4? Anyhow, the climbing is easy, but don't fall.

Clip the single bolt belay or if you're starting there, start up. The climbing is overhung trad from here to almost the top...just enough to give you a pump while fishing in gear...good hooks in crack and face, feet to work for, and occasional loose rock. I personally didn't find it too loose, but my partner thought otherwise.

In all seriousness, this is one of the better trad mixed pitches I've done. It climbs really well, and it's never crowded!

Location

This is on the right-facing wall 15 feet off the road right off the approach for Chockstone Chimney.

Protection

Doubles up to #2 with singles of #3 and #4, mostly thin stuff, maybe bring a KB for the direct start.

Photos

0 Comments