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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,502 total, 24/month
Shared By: Noah McKelvin on Nov 21, 2012
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

A direct start is recommended for a full value lead. If you don't like that run out sort of thing, then you can traverse in from the left at a single bolt belay.

For the direct start, start up a faint seam near the first big chockstone on Chockstone Chimney.

Climb up with not great gear, but the climbing is pretty easy...maybe M4? Anyhow, the climbing is easy, but don't fall.

Clip the single bolt belay or if you're starting there, start up. The climbing is overhung trad from here to almost the top...just enough to give you a pump while fishing in gear...good hooks in crack and face, feet to work for, and occasional loose rock. I personally didn't find it too loose, but my partner thought otherwise.

In all seriousness, this is one of the better trad mixed pitches I've done. It climbs really well, and it's never crowded!

Location

This is on the right-facing wall 15 feet off the road right off the approach for Chockstone Chimney.

Protection

Doubles up to #2 with singles of #3 and #4, mostly thin stuff, maybe bring a KB for the direct start.

Photos

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