Type: Trad, Mixed, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jack Cramer, Grant Kleeves
Page Views: 505 total · 11/month
Shared By: Grant Kleeves on May 25, 2015
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is another dark side chimney, only this one gets you to two exposed, solid (for this wall) crux pitches that are well worth the price of admission.

P1. Begin in the snow gully. Hike up beneath the large chockstone, and continue to the dirty chimney. Climb the chimney/corner staying to the right as it widens. Exit using an old stump for sticks. Belay on the right on thick, gnarled, roots; M4, 75m, JC.

P2/3. Continue through the trees to the snow couloir. Ascend the couloir passing a few small chockstones along the way. Belay on the left in a broken crack safe from the rockfall that the next pitch guarantees. We belayed this as two separate pitches via a tree belay on the right. With good snow conditions. this should be easy to simul; 50˚ snow, 120m, GK/JC.

P4. Admire the bombay gaper on the left, then climb the more reasonably-sized chimney to the right. Dig out the loose crack for gear, passing a fixed pecker just after the narrow crux. Belay, with tricky gear beneath the protecting overhang. A 65m rope is required to make it to this safe belay without simuling. If snow/lack thereof conditions are good, there is a ledge with trees that would be far more comfortable to belay on about 20' short of the overhang; M5, 65m, GK.

P5. Continue up the chimney, passing a leaning overhang protected with good cams. When it ends, move left through bushes to a large dead tree. Stop and belay here, using the tree and extended cams in the cracks on the left; M5+, 25m, JC.

P6. Climb the corner on the right using stems and hammered in tools. This is strenuous but well-protected. Pull onto lower angled terrain, and continue to a fixed anchor consisting of a nut and a KB; M6-6+, 40m, JC.

Descent – do 60m rappels using the fixed anchor at the top of P6 and then four trees with green webbing. The path is located on the face to the right of the chimney system. A short downclimb is required on the P3 ledge to reach the final rappel tree. Almost all of the raps are right to the end of a 60m rope, watch your ends.

Location

It is on the 21 and Up Buttress, just left of the prominent, lightning bolt-shaped snow gully.

Protection

Double cams BD 0.3 to 3, stoppers, and an assortment of pins.

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Nice work, guys!!! Sweet buttress! I'll have to check it out. The season is upon us. Cheers Oct 22, 2015