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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jack Cramer, Grant Kleeves
Page Views: 414 total, 14/month
Shared By: Grant Kleeves on May 25, 2015
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is another dark side chimney, only this one gets you to two exposed, solid (for this wall) crux pitches that are well worth the price of admission.

P1. Begin in the snow gully. Hike up beneath the large chockstone, and continue to the dirty chimney. Climb the chimney/corner staying to the right as it widens. Exit using an old stump for sticks. Belay on the right on thick, gnarled, roots; M4, 75m, JC.

P2/3. Continue through the trees to the snow couloir. Ascend the couloir passing a few small chockstones along the way. Belay on the left in a broken crack safe from the rockfall that the next pitch guarantees. We belayed this as two separate pitches via a tree belay on the right. With good snow conditions. this should be easy to simul; 50˚ snow, 120m, GK/JC.

P4. Admire the bombay gaper on the left, then climb the more reasonably-sized chimney to the right. Dig out the loose crack for gear, passing a fixed pecker just after the narrow crux. Belay, with tricky gear beneath the protecting overhang. A 65m rope is required to make it to this safe belay without simuling. If snow/lack thereof conditions are good, there is a ledge with trees that would be far more comfortable to belay on about 20' short of the overhang; M5, 65m, GK.

P5. Continue up the chimney, passing a leaning overhang protected with good cams. When it ends, move left through bushes to a large dead tree. Stop and belay here, using the tree and extended cams in the cracks on the left; M5+, 25m, JC.

P6. Climb the corner on the right using stems and hammered in tools. This is strenuous but well-protected. Pull onto lower angled terrain, and continue to a fixed anchor consisting of a nut and a KB; M6-6+, 40m, JC.

Descent – do 60m rappels using the fixed anchor at the top of P6 and then four trees with green webbing. The path is located on the face to the right of the chimney system. A short downclimb is required on the P3 ledge to reach the final rappel tree. Almost all of the raps are right to the end of a 60m rope, watch your ends.

Location

It is on the 21 and Up Buttress, just left of the prominent, lightning bolt-shaped snow gully.

Protection

Double cams BD 0.3 to 3, stoppers, and an assortment of pins.

Photos

Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Nice work, guys!!! Sweet buttress! I'll have to check it out. The season is upon us. Cheers Oct 22, 2015