Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 160 ft
FA: an honored ancestor
Page Views: 677 total · 15/month
Shared By: Eric Wright on Mar 19, 2015
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

Just to the left of Choppo's (Charlie Fowler's) Chimney is this neglected, chossy groove. It has classic Skylight mixed, similar to what one might find across the road on the dark side.

This is a moderate pitch; however, it has a reputation for being difficult to protect as noted by Cameron Burns and Jack Roberts. It's a testpiece for its grade, in that there is no fixed gear to retreat from. Nor is there much ice thick enough to slam screws into at will, or plug cams into conveniently situated cracks. It is sketchy trad at its best. That's what you came for, right?

Location

This is fifty feet left of the best WI4 in Ouray.

Protection

As for gear, it's always going to be a mixed climb. There is often an icy bit at the top leading to a large tree draped with rap slings. It's historically been considered a difficult climb to protect. With modern gear, perhaps it is less so.

As the climb is relatively low angle, there are several places where soils and bushes now frozen, will yield spectre placements.

In short, bringing a full rack up to 2.5 inches and 4-6 screws should sew it up. Tri-cams work great in the icy cracks and pockets. One might say that it that it is easier to climb than it is to protect. 50 meter double ropes are plenty long.

Oh and since we are on the topic of safety, keep in mind that we are sharing this road with the very generous miners. When they drive by, please continue to be respectful and move out of the way. They are working and in no mood for our silly slacker sport antics :-)
I named it Chopped Suey when putting together the first CO ice guide, but I'm damn sure it'd been climbed before 1994. Ha Ha! Just saw Joe Ryan's text. Joe watched me do it that day. Long time ago! Feb 3, 2016
Eric Wright
Telluride CO.
  5.7 WI4- M4
Eric Wright   Telluride CO.
  5.7 WI4- M4
Thanks for your comment.
Have enjoyed navigating with your wonderful guidebook all these years. Mar 28, 2017