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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,353 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Mar 2, 2011
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

From the road, you will first need to kick step and/or snow wallow up a couple hundred feet to the base of the ice pitch. Belay in a shallow alcove on the right. At the start of the ice, a length of black irrigation pipe was frozen into the route.
Both Burns (1997:177) and Roberts (2005:158) say the route is 200-250 feet long. For us, The Cleft actually only hosted about ~50 feet of ice, and then involved snow wallowing to the end of the rope. Maybe in a different year there's a longer stretch of vertical ice.

Location

As you approach the Skylight area (but before you get to the Skylight climb itself), The Cleft is the first big gully on the right just past the Poser's Lounge drytooling rockshelter.
From the road, looking way up into the Cleft you can see a large tree growing nearly horizontally out of the left canyon wall. The climb ends somewhere underneath there.

Protection

A couple of screws, maybe a light rock rack in thin conditions.
About 30 feet up the ice pitch, there is a steel cable strung through a little rock overhang on the right; some leaver-biners on the cable suggest its past use as a rap station. But this station is located only about 1/2 of the way through the ice pitch.
Instead, both Burns and Roberts say to rappel the route off trees. But, at ~50m, getting over to the obvious tree on the left looked sketchy in the snow conditions we found. That tree would make a solid rap station if you can reach it (but I didn't see any slings on it).
Alternately, at 60m (directly below the overhead powerlines), you may find some blobs of ice; you can v-thread or bollard those. Otherwise...keep going up to some other unseen trees?

Photos

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