Type: Trad, Mixed, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,065 total · 17/month
Shared By: Steve House on Dec 9, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

P1. Slog up the snowy gully, and overcome two chockstones by stemming. If the gully has been climbed more or if it hasn't snowed in a while, this can be fun, easy mixed.

There is a fixed piton and a good (3.5" stainless, 2019) bolt just below and right of the narrow-cave-like feature. When the route is in condition, there should be ice coming out of this cave and down the slab to the climber's left.

P2: depending on the amount of ice this can be easy and safe or desperate and dangerous. Climb up and left, following the ice. Typically this is mostly protected with cams right off the anchor (I take 4 Camalots, size #0.5-3), and screws should be more and more available as you climb higher. The pitch is not long, so I usually take 3 screws, some might want more, but as with most trad mixed, if there is lots of ice, you don't need as much protection. If there isn't enough ice, then you want more protection, but you can't have it.

At the top of pitch two, belay off a fixed anchor that should be updated with good bolts but is a mixture of fixed nuts and pins and cordage (it is on my list of things to update here).

P3 From the large dramatically perched ledge, step right 5ft and slither up the chimney above. Blobs of ice and the odd gear placements lead up into the trees. Lots of trees up there to rap off.
M4?

Location Suggest change

This starts in the narrow, usually snow-filled, gully that is midway between the Choppo's Chimney climb (downhill of this) and Slip Sliding Away (uphill of this).

See the photo:

Protection Suggest change

A small trad rack and a handful of ice screws.

Photos

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