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Routes in Camp Bird Road
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Charlie Faust, Jason Nelson |
| Page Views: | 674 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Faust on Feb 9, 2021 |
| Admins: | Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic
Details
Revenue and Camp Bird Mines have resumed mining activities further up Camp Bird Rd. A new sign posted in February 2013 caused some tension as described in:
watchnewspapers.com/view/fu…
Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
watchnewspapers.com/view/fu…
Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
Description
This route isn't your standard Darkside affair. Most of the route is steep, sustained, and it won't always be your calves that are getting pumped! I think it's a classic on the wall, something that's truly worth repeating. Hope you enjoy it!P1. Start in a #4-5 crack at the toe of the buttress. Follow the crack system up the slab through a few bulges. Beneath the chossy seam/inset (40-45m), traverse hard left around the corner. Build an anchor or use the tree (M5 50m).
P2. This is a journey! Unlock the technical face, trending right around the buttress into the dihedral system splitting the wall. At the top of the first dihedral, step left, and climb through the steep face/crack (this takes you back right into the 2nd dihedral). At the top of the system, go left and up a scoop to the large ledge, use a tree anchor, 60+m (M6 10a).
P3. Move the belay climber’s right 20m around the corner of the buttress, use a tree anchor and same as P3 anchor on “Mama Tried”.
P4: Look at that steep dihedral! Stem, jam, and drytool the sustained corner. At the top, follow the ramp 10ish meters and build an anchor beneath the seam going through the overhang, 35m (M6 10a).
P5. This is the namesake pitch. Climb the sweet, steep seam, getting whatever gear you can before topping out on the slab. You won’t see any for a while. That mossy dihedral up and right? That’s what you’re aiming for. Tiptoe through the slab into the corner. Eventually you’ll get gear. Sweet moss sticks and stemming lead you to the top. Use a tree anchor, 50m M5 (M4 X).
P6. Go up the scoop, and then trend left for 35m up ledges. You’ll be 30-40m straight above the 4th pitch anchors on Mama Tried. Use a tree anchor, 40m (M3).
Descent: rap Mama Tried, all the anchors are fixed. The fixed, 2 nut/small tree anchor might change with quality during the yearly freeze/thaw. Feel free to add bolts to this rappel anchor. All others are off large trees.
Rack: singles 000-1 C3, doubles 2 C3-#5, nuts, pins, and 2 60m ropes (or longer for no simuling).
P2. This is a journey! Unlock the technical face, trending right around the buttress into the dihedral system splitting the wall. At the top of the first dihedral, step left, and climb through the steep face/crack (this takes you back right into the 2nd dihedral). At the top of the system, go left and up a scoop to the large ledge, use a tree anchor, 60+m (M6 10a).
P3. Move the belay climber’s right 20m around the corner of the buttress, use a tree anchor and same as P3 anchor on “Mama Tried”.
P4: Look at that steep dihedral! Stem, jam, and drytool the sustained corner. At the top, follow the ramp 10ish meters and build an anchor beneath the seam going through the overhang, 35m (M6 10a).
P5. This is the namesake pitch. Climb the sweet, steep seam, getting whatever gear you can before topping out on the slab. You won’t see any for a while. That mossy dihedral up and right? That’s what you’re aiming for. Tiptoe through the slab into the corner. Eventually you’ll get gear. Sweet moss sticks and stemming lead you to the top. Use a tree anchor, 50m M5 (M4 X).
P6. Go up the scoop, and then trend left for 35m up ledges. You’ll be 30-40m straight above the 4th pitch anchors on Mama Tried. Use a tree anchor, 40m (M3).
Descent: rap Mama Tried, all the anchors are fixed. The fixed, 2 nut/small tree anchor might change with quality during the yearly freeze/thaw. Feel free to add bolts to this rappel anchor. All others are off large trees.
Rack: singles 000-1 C3, doubles 2 C3-#5, nuts, pins, and 2 60m ropes (or longer for no simuling).
Location
This route pushes a line up the middle of the mitten-shaped buttress in between the House/Kennedy Chimney and the Racing Stripes. Begin your descent just past the Poser's Lounge, and pull off. Cross the river, and angle up and left through the trees to the base of the buttress. The approach time is 30 minutes - 1 hour depending on snow conditions.
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