Type: Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Donald & Duncan Ferguson, ~'75
Page Views: 5,313 total · 32/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2005
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details


This is a very fun route uphill from Skylight. This was shown in the ice video, On Ice.

P1. The 1st pitch goes up to a small cave, WI3.

P2. Break out of cave and left (crux), and fire up beautiful groove/dihedral to the top, ~WI4.

Rappel 50m. Per doligo: a 60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road.


Ice screws and a lack of brains.
I believe the first ascent of this fine little climb was around 1975 by Kevin Donald and Duncan Ferguson while looking for routes to climb with International Alpine School students. However Rusty Bailley (sp) was living in Montrose at the time and he had an appetite for ice as well, so who knows? Nov 15, 2004
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
Seems easier to just do this as one long pitch. Jul 9, 2011
60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road. One double rope rappel or two single ones (there is an intermediate above the first ice bulge) will get you down. Feb 9, 2012
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
This can also be done in 3 pitches. If you break up the bottom into two pitches, you can continue from the second anchors at the ledge up the gully to a tree. There are two trees at the top with rap rings. The 3rd pitch is thin in spots (at least in late December 2015), but screws can be placed in good spots. I was told there was a spot for a cam or nut on this pitch, but I never saw any place for them. Dec 30, 2015
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
Climbed this route on 3/1/2017. First pitch went from the road up the low angle ice to the base of the first steep section in the slot (maybe ~20-30m), second pitch all the way to the top (~40m). With some thinner ice, we found the crux to be the chimney in the middle of the route, not the steeper first section, which was pretty straightforward. In fatter conditions, the chimney may not be too bad.

A pair of 60m ropes gets you from the rap rings all the way to the road. Mar 6, 2017