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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Donald & Duncan Ferguson, ~'75
Page Views: 5,065 total · 32/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2005
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a very fun route uphill from Skylight. This was shown in the ice video, On Ice.

P1. The 1st pitch goes up to a small cave, WI3.

P2. Break out of cave and left (crux), and fire up beautiful groove/dihedral to the top, ~WI4.

Rappel 50m. Per doligo: a 60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road.

Protection

Ice screws and a lack of brains.
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
  WI4
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
  WI4
Climbed this route on 3/1/2017. First pitch went from the road up the low angle ice to the base of the first steep section in the slot (maybe ~20-30m), second pitch all the way to the top (~40m). With some thinner ice, we found the crux to be the chimney in the middle of the route, not the steeper first section, which was pretty straightforward. In fatter conditions, the chimney may not be too bad.

A pair of 60m ropes gets you from the rap rings all the way to the road. Mar 6, 2017
Ryan Bracci
San Juan Capistrano, CA
  WI4-
Ryan Bracci   San Juan Capistrano, CA
  WI4-
This can also be done in 3 pitches. If you break up the bottom into two pitches, you can continue from the second anchors at the ledge up the gully to a tree. There are two trees at the top with rap rings. The 3rd pitch is thin in spots (at least in late December 2015), but screws can be placed in good spots. I was told there was a spot for a cam or nut on this pitch, but I never saw any place for them. Dec 30, 2015
doligo
 
doligo  
 
60m rope comfortably gets you all the way to the tree from the road. One double rope rappel or two single ones (there is an intermediate above the first ice bulge) will get you down. Feb 9, 2012
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
Seems easier to just do this as one long pitch. Jul 9, 2011
I believe the first ascent of this fine little climb was around 1975 by Kevin Donald and Duncan Ferguson while looking for routes to climb with International Alpine School students. However Rusty Bailley (sp) was living in Montrose at the time and he had an appetite for ice as well, so who knows? Nov 15, 2004

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