Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Phil Wortmann, Noah McKelvin|
|Page Views:||1,242 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Noah McKelvin on Nov 27, 2014|
|Admins:||Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
This is a wild modern mixed route: all gear, no bolts; radical overhangs, exciting runouts, splitter dihedrals, slabs, and OWs. This route will test your mettle. Some might find the route harder than graded, but it is probably easier. It's an awesome adventure no matter the grade and a classic outing.
P1. (M6 R) Start up and find the easiest way through the slightly exciting, runout, slabby start. You're aiming for the right side of this thin, overhanging seam that traverses straight left into the dihedral. Fire the seam (watch rope drag!). Enter the M6 dihedral. The gear here is really good. It is super fun climbing, like climbing in The Creek except with tools! Once the dihedral ends, the excitement starts. Traverse straight left on slabby, insecure terrain with bad rock and no gear. Fire the small corner to the belay. Exciting.
P2. (M8 PG-13) From the belay, spy the overhanging finger crack right above your head. Start off the belay on some tough, M6ish terrain. Gain a nice, no hands rest. From there, it gets really wild. The protection is good, but the climbing is quite desperate. The crack is always the wrong size for the picks, and the feet don't always work out. Hard, precise liebacking with the tools gets you by, along with some awesome heel hooks. Once the crack goes away, do a tough (M6/7?) traverse right into a run out OW. The topout is then an easy slab to a welcoming tree. WILD. Sick bird!
The route gets part of its name from when a microwave-sized chunk of rock blew out on me, mid-runout, at the top of P1, which caused me to take a sideways fall for 30 feet, hitting the dihedral with my upper body, and crushing my finger. For evidence, check out the blood that splatters the walls all over the dihedral!
CAUTION: please be very careful with rockfall on this route. The crux sets you up for bombing the road with rocks.