Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve House and Josh Wharton, 1/14/14
Page Views: 1,905 total · 30/month
Shared By: j wharton on Jan 18, 2014
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a direct (1.5 pitches) start to "The Demon" that is completely independent from The Talisman. We thought it was quite good and worthy of traffic. It has Colorado "mixed" climbing with ice and Scottish style hummocks for a change! As long as the small pillar on The Demon is there, it should always be climbable.

P1: Climb an obvious ramp/crack feature 20 meters left of Talisman's first pitch to a nice belay by a small pine. Numerous frozen hummocks, aka the "Hairy Devils", towards the top of this pitch provide some security but also make protection difficult. Pins are nice. This pitch is a little steeper and more awkward than it first appears, M6-ish R, 60 meters.

P2: Move left from the belay, and go up the obvious seam (fixed angle), and join the pillar of The Demon, passing another fixed pin, and small roof above the pillar. Belay in a small alcove above the roof on small gear and screws, or stretch the rope all the way to the trees. This pitch is a little more technical, and steeper than pitch one but has mostly good gear, M6-7, 50 or 60 meters.

P3: Traverse across the top of The Talisman, and rappel with two ropes off tress.

Location

This is just left of The Talisman to the south Camp Bird Road.

Protection

Set and a half of cams, set of wires, 4-ish pitons, and 6-ish screws.
Steve House  
 
Save some thin pitons and small gear (0 Metolius), small nuts, for the anchor in the somewhat junky crack behind the small (7 foot?), skinny spruce tree. You can get a decent anchor on this big, comfy ledge, but it takes some work. Be warned though, this is proper M6. By comparison, I think BBB or The Talisman are both about M5 (5.7). The first pitch feel 5.9ish, and the second pitch feels 5.10ish. Jan 18, 2014