| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 37.98459, -107.70051 |
| FA: | Steve House and Josh Wharton, 1/14/14 |
| Page Views: | 2,750 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | j wharton on Jan 18, 2014 |
| Admins: | Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
Description
This is a direct (1.5 pitches) start to "The Demon" that is completely independent from The Talisman. We thought it was quite good and worthy of traffic. It has Colorado "mixed" climbing with ice and Scottish style hummocks for a change! As long as the small pillar on The Demon is there, it should always be climbable.
P1: Climb an obvious ramp/crack feature 20 meters left of Talisman's first pitch to a nice belay by a small pine. Numerous frozen hummocks, aka the "Hairy Devils", towards the top of this pitch provide some security but also make protection difficult. Pins are nice. This pitch is a little steeper and more awkward than it first appears, M6-ish R, 60 meters.
P2: Move left from the belay, and go up the obvious seam (fixed angle), and join the pillar of The Demon, passing another fixed pin, and small roof above the pillar. Belay in a small alcove above the roof on small gear and screws, or stretch the rope all the way to the trees. This pitch is a little more technical, and steeper than pitch one but has mostly good gear, M6-7, 50 or 60 meters.
P3: Traverse across the top of The Talisman, and rappel with two ropes off tress.



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