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Routes in Camp Bird Road
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 37.98459, -107.70051 |
| FA: | Jesse Huey and Ryan Vachon |
| Page Views: | 3,673 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Huey on Jan 13, 2015 |
| Admins: | Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic
Details
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Please refrain from blocking the road, yield to oncoming mining vehicle traffic, and be careful of rockfall and icefall. Please share the road to minimize future access issues with the road's multiple user groups.
sub·ter·fuge
An artifice or expedient used to evade a rule, escape a consequence, hide something, etc.
This is an awesome, new, mixed addition gaining the ice to the right side of the super classic Talisman.
Pitch 1: start with the first pitch of the Talisman proper, then move right across the ledge system 50 feet to the right of the start to the Talisman's 2nd pitch.
Pitch 2: look for a thin seem and a single bolt leading to a hanging corner (gear) and a overhang. At the corner, move left below the roof to a blind bolt just left of the corner around the arete. Climb overhanging rock protected by 2 more bolts with increasing difficulty to thin ice and a small stance. It is possible to continue on up the steep ice, but this stance was used by the first ascentionists (belay off ice screws). M7. ;)
Pitch 3: climb steep ice to the top of the Talisman, and belay off a tree or screw anchors. WI6.
Rack: a single set to # 3 with nuts. (The anchor for the belay at the start of the mixed pitch: large Pecker, #3, & #0.75 in choss)
Rappel the Talisman.
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