Type: Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,238 total · 31/month
Shared By: sandstone on Apr 13, 2005
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is uphill from Skylight. Previously, the info had been incorrect on this route.

Walk under the first chockstone, climb a short ice bulge, continue up low angled slopes to a screw belay at the base of the larger ice bulge. Climb the steep bulge (left), or simulclimb up (right) on snow under the big chockstone. Continue until the next moderate ice bulge (the gully narrows here), where you can establish a screw belay. Climb to the top of the ice, then make a short climb/traverse trending left (on crappy rock) to a snow ramp which leads to the top. There is loose rock here, and it will get funneled onto the belayer, so position the belay wisely.

Protection

Ice screws can be useful where the ice is fat enough. Bring rock gear.
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Second pitch is in above this climb. Mixed conditions at the top. Placement of ice screws can be tough, bring rock. Anchor at top is a bit away so be sure to bring two ropes of have a hairy long down climb. Jan 12, 2004
sandstone
  WI3-4
sandstone  
  WI3-4
Eds. reference to an incorrect photo:

I've posted some newer photos of what the guidebooks say is Chockstone Chimney (the old McTiernan guidebook is actually better for identifying these climbs than the newer Roberts guidebook -- that is assuming McTiernan got it right :-).

This is a fun route that is not hard. The views up and down the route (especially looking up under the big chockstone) are very cool.

Here's one way to do it (in the conditions we found). Walk under the first chockstone, climb a short ice bulge, continue up low angled slopes to a screw belay at the base of the larger ice bulge. Climb the steep bulge (left), or simulclimb up (right) on snow under the big chockstone. Continue until the next moderate ice bulge (the gully narrows here), where you can establish a screw belay. Climb to the top of the ice, then make a short climb/traverse trending left (on crappy rock) to a snow ramp which leads to the top. There is loose rock here, and it will get funneled onto the belayer, so position the belay wisely. Feb 14, 2007
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
  WI4-
Kyle Tarry   Portland, OR
  WI4-
With significant snow on the route in March 2017, the first chockstone was completely buried, and there was no ice whatsoever required to get to the big overhead chockstone. Good steep ice on the left of the big chockstone with a slung tree to rap from. Upper pitch was thin/out.

I think that the R-rating is only for the second pitch, the first pitch (next to the big overhead chockstone) was fat and very easy to protect. Mar 6, 2017