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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Donald, Duncan Ferguson and International Alpine School students the winter of '75/'76
Page Views: 5,269 total, 34/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2005
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a fun, 2 pitch route uphill from Skylight. Wallow up snow to nook. It was featured in the ice video, On Ice.

P1. Go up and left up a lower-angled ramp, and belay left of vertical curtain.

P2. 2nd pitch goes out right up vertical curtain and to the right. Rappel 60m off trees. Alternatively, you may be able to go left up the low angled ice.

Less helmet ice than Skylight.

Protection

Ice screws and lack of brains.

Photos

Route to right is "Shattered Dreams" Photo - Jason Nelson. Jan 31, 2011
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
Anyone know route and FA info of the mixed/bolted route just right of the main ice flow. Feels about M6 WI5, chain anchor at the top. Highly recommended. Feb 9, 2009
Kevin Craig  
 
Second the recommendation to do it as one long pitch. There is sometimes another pitch that forms up above the tree belay. Wallow up snow to a thin lower angle gully grovel - even when there, the ice is thin and the pro tricky. The climbing is easier than the first pitch however. Worth doing if it's formed and you're there anyway. A seemingly solid dead tree on the left with slings/cord provides an anchor to rap to the initial tree belay. 2 x 60m ropes/raps.

Lastly, though the "On Ice" video says the climb depicted is Slip-Slidin' it looks a lot more like Slippery When Wet. Feb 1, 2008
Scott Bower
Fort Collins, CO
  WI4
Scott Bower   Fort Collins, CO
  WI4
I recommend doing this as a single, long pitch if you have enough gear and a 60m. Rope drag was not a problem and you get a nice, big, tree belay at the top. Plus, the top is in the sun after late morning. Jan 2, 2007
Greetings, I'm fairly certain that the FA of "Slip Sliding Away" was Kevin Donald, Duncan Ferguson and International Alpine School students the winter of '75/'76. I do not remember seeing it in shape when Jeff Lowe, Kevin Donald, and David Brashears did "The Skylight" in '74/'75, It is named after the Simon and Garfunkel song. Cheers!, Kevin Donald Feb 8, 2004
Climbed Slip Sliding Away earlier today and it was pretty good. Very warm in Ouray and at the climb, things are wet and need some cold weather. Most of Skylight area climbs are really thin. Also, Lake City is in and ready to go. Nov 24, 2002