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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,889 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jason Himick on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a lesser known little gem in the Skylight area that doesn't appear in the guidebooks. A fair flow forms some moderately steep water ice in a discrete cleft in the rock above Chockstone Chimney.

Climb approximately fifty feet of rarely touched ice to a cruxy top-out in thin ice, snow and rock. Wallow up the gully through the snow to an anchor about one hundred feet up on the right.

Descend by rapping off the anchor with two 60 meter ropes to the base of the climb or by rapping into upper Chockstone Chimney.

Beware of attempting this climb after a night of heavy gin drinking followed by a greased Sysco breakfast at the Silver Nugget... or the 'Skillet' may just have its Revenge! Bring a blue bag if you're prone to such behavior.

Location

After climbing the ice that forms on the left side of Chockstone Chimney, you will find this little gem by wallowing a couple hundred yards up through the snow. This is not the ephemeral ice that forms in upper Chockstone Chimney if you continue up the gully past the giant chockstone. However, in a big snow year, you can access this climb by heading up the gully past the giant chockstone and heading left at the spruce trees. From there, it's only fifty feet until the climb is visible.

Protection

Ice screws.

Photos

Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Fun pitch of ice that makes for a nice finish to Chockstone Chimney. Last weekend the climb was heavily cauliflowered and difficult to protect at times. The top out was almost all rock, but took great cams (#2-#3 Camalots) behind the chockstone. Had to swim through waist deep snow to get to the rap anchor up and right from the top of the climb. From here, you can easily rap down the upper portion of Chockstone Chimney.

I thought that the climb was a little closer to 70ft in length.

The Skillet did get its revenge on my belayer, Matt. I sent some ice down from near the top that took a bad bounce and hit Matt in the face and helmet. He kept his brake hand on and shook off the hit to let me finish the lead. Pretty stout. He then seconded the climb all the while pointing out how fun the climbing was and how great a day we were having. Having a bad ass holding the rope for you is just as important as sharp tools and screws. Dec 14, 2009