Type: Ice, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,311 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jason Himick on Feb 26, 2008
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a lesser known little gem in the Skylight area that doesn't appear in the guidebooks. A fair flow forms some moderately steep water ice in a discrete cleft in the rock above Chockstone Chimney.

Climb approximately fifty feet of rarely touched ice to a cruxy top-out in thin ice, snow and rock. Wallow up the gully through the snow to an anchor about one hundred feet up on the right.

Descend by rapping off the anchor with two 60 meter ropes to the base of the climb or by rapping into upper Chockstone Chimney.

Beware of attempting this climb after a night of heavy gin drinking followed by a greased Sysco breakfast at the Silver Nugget... or the 'Skillet' may just have its Revenge! Bring a blue bag if you're prone to such behavior.

Location

After climbing the ice that forms on the left side of Chockstone Chimney, you will find this little gem by wallowing a couple hundred yards up through the snow. This is not the ephemeral ice that forms in upper Chockstone Chimney if you continue up the gully past the giant chockstone. However, in a big snow year, you can access this climb by heading up the gully past the giant chockstone and heading left at the spruce trees. From there, it's only fifty feet until the climb is visible.

Protection

Ice screws.

Photos