Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6-7 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Mixed, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Steve House and Ian Yurdin
Page Views: 1,592 total · 28/month
Shared By: Steve House on Nov 30, 2013
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This route starts in the chockstone-capped chimney one drainage right of Snowblind Friend (1978), once mis-identified (or suspected to be Jeff Lowe's Walk the Line, the route that is currently mis-identified on MP (1/20/14) as "Walk the LIne previously submitted as Attractive Hazard"

Why all this confusion? Because Jeff Lowe climbed these two routes long ago, in 1978 (Snowblind Friend) and 1980 (Walk the Line) and didn't document them. In a conversation with Jeff Lowe in January 2014, he traced for me and Josh Wharton, the bottom section of this route as Walk the Line, which he had soloed to 3/4 of the way up the wall and then down climbed a tight snow gully into Snowblind Friend and finished via that route. The fact that this tight snow gully is invisible from anywhere but on the route, and that it exists (I used it to link Snowblind Friend to the upper two pitches of Irene), for me confirms that Jeff was there. He also wrote an essay in Jack Robert's

1) Climb the chimney and pull the chockstone, belay on a tree with a rap sling 30 feet above the chockstone. This pitch is dirty but will clean up well with ascents.

2) Head up the easy snow slow, aiming slightly left for the steeper wall with the right-arching crack. Belay at the base of the arching crack. Note: Since I wrote this two parties have gone up here and gone too far left. Another way to look at this pitch is to head up the slab trending slightly left to the base of a right-arching low-angle crack. This is not a massively long pitch, can't remember exact length of it. I left a piton/nut anchor here for descending.

3) Climb the (low-angle) right-arching crack to the crest, turn the corner of the buttress, and follow the right side of crest up steppy terrain finishing on a nice steep wide (4-6") crack. At the top of the wide crack is an annoying bush, work past it and up to the col. Belay in the little col (difficult to get an anchor). You could also belay at the base of the wide crack.

4) The best thing here is to make a short, 60 foot, pitch by dropping slightly down the other side of the col (you're now looking straight down into Snowblind Friend), traversing left into an easy corner that goes to another col. A two-nut fixed anchor can be found on the left when you're standing in the little col. Right below this anchor is the gully which leads easily down to the Snowblind Friend route and a 3-bolt anchor added in 2013.

5) These last two pitches are really awesome in my opinion. From the second-col belay, step across the gap and climb somewhat crumbly orange rock up and right for a few delicate moves on marginal gear that all together is probably good. This orange ramp leads you to the edge of a really cool chimney/crack feature. Savor the exposure, place the 4" piece at your knee, and step across. Follow the fun, solid crack up for about 50 feet to a nice snow-covered belay ledge with two bolts on its right side. Originally these were both self-drive Petzl caving bolts, but I replaced one with a proper 3.25" stainless steel bolt in November 2013.

6) This pitch is a blast. Climb the not-so-steep crack with great turf sticks and excellent rock to the top and a tree.

Rap the route. OR I think it works better to rap the top two pitches and drop into Snowblind friend and rap the (retro) bolted anchors of this route.

Protection

My standard rack for routes on this side is 3 pins (small KB, med KB, med LA), a set of nuts, and a single set of cams including a large (#4 Camalot size) cam. Bring plenty of runners. Climbers unaccustomed to this type of climbing will do well to double this.

Photos

0 Comments

More About Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene

Printer-Friendly