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Routes in Camp Bird Road

99 Problems T M5-
Bird Brain Boulevard T WI5 M5
Blood and Spit T M8 R
Cavegina S M8+
Chock Up Another One T WI3-4
Chockstone Chimney T WI3-4 R
Chopped Suey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI4- M4 PG13
Choppo's Chimney T WI4+
Cinnamon and Cider S M11
Cleft, The WI3
Czech Mate T M5
Desperado T M6 R
Dirty Bird WI3 M9-
Dirty Minds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a M6 R
Dumpster Diver S M5
Fistful of Steel S M10
Fractured Fairytales T M6+
Gangsta Rap Made Me Do It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI3 M6 R
Going Retro S M6
Goldline S M10
Hairy Devil T WI5+ M6-7 R
House/Kennedy Chimney, The T M6 R
Just Another Duncan Route T WI4-5 M5
Killer Pillar T WI5-6 M5+ R
Local Scoop, The S M7
Lola's Leap S M6-
M6 Corner T WI4+ M6
M7 Crack T M6-7
Maid to Order S M7
Mile 4 S M6
Negligent Behavior T WI5- M5+ R
O'Donnell's Route WI4+
Paco's Chewy S M5+
Racing Stripe (Left) T WI4 M4-5
Racing Stripe (Right) T WI5 M6
Ribbon, The T WI4
Rusty Cage T M7 PG13
Senator Gulch T,TR WI3-4
Shattered Dreams WI5+ M8
Skillet's Revenge WI4+
Sky is Falling, The S M9+
Skylight T WI4+ M4-5
Slip Sliding Away T WI4-
Slippery When Wet T WI4
Snow Blind Friend, Walk the Line? (submitted as Attractive Hazard) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M6 X
Subterfuge T WI6 M7+
Talisman, The T WI5-6 M6
Tasty Talks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5 R
Thick Scull Thoroughfare T M6+
Tourist Trap WI4+ M5
Troglodyte S M9
Troutman/Rodent, The T M5 R
Vulgar Display of Power T M6 R
Wake Up Call T M5+ R
Walk Irene, Submitted as Goodnight Irene T M5-6 PG13
Weak and the Weary T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M5+ R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bryan Gilmore and Jim Turner
Page Views: 1,217 total, 20/month
Shared By: Bryan Gilmore on Dec 16, 2012
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a great adventure route up a major corner system that eventually climbs an amazing chimney behind the obvious, large pillar in the middle of the wall. There is cruxy climbing on each of the 4 pitches, all with just enough pro to make it reasonable. But, a fall anywhere would be less than ideal! This route, like the other new routes on this wall put up over the last few seasons, serves up a healthy portion of CHOSS. But, if you're a seasoned San Juan adventurer, you should find enjoyment throughout. :O

Location

It is about halfway between Bird Brain Boulevard and the Racing Stripes. This ascends very obvious corners leading to giant pillar on wall. See the pic.

Protection

We brought a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot, one #4, and a set of stoppers. Pins could be useful. Bring a 70m rope. Four raps gets you down with a bit of easy scrambling to reach the last rap anchor - all from stout trees. The second rap can be done with one rope, the others are all rope stretchers.

Photos

phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
 
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
 
This route is a great addition to the Dark Side. We found every pitch to be time consuming due the wet snow, and that the route is new enough that the climbing and gear placements are definitely not obvious. Each pitch was fairly sustained and thought provoking. Just keep moving and trust that you'll find something....

The last pitch through the chimney definitely makes this a big-boy route! Props to the FA crew. Very runout, but the chimney gives you some security. Apr 23, 2013