Type: Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bryan Gilmore and Jim Turner
Page Views: 1,535 total · 17/month
Shared By: B Gilmore on Dec 16, 2012
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a great adventure route up a major corner system that eventually climbs an amazing chimney behind the obvious, large pillar in the middle of the wall. There is cruxy climbing on each of the 4 pitches, all with just enough pro to make it reasonable. But, a fall anywhere would be less than ideal! This route, like the other new routes on this wall put up over the last few seasons, serves up a healthy portion of CHOSS. But, if you're a seasoned San Juan adventurer, you should find enjoyment throughout. :O

Location

It is about halfway between Bird Brain Boulevard and the Racing Stripes. This ascends very obvious corners leading to giant pillar on wall. See the pic.

Protection

We brought a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot, one #4, and a set of stoppers. Pins could be useful. Bring a 70m rope. Four raps gets you down with a bit of easy scrambling to reach the last rap anchor - all from stout trees. The second rap can be done with one rope, the others are all rope stretchers.

Photos