Type: Trad, Mixed, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bryan Gilmore and Jim Turner
Page Views: 1,335 total · 18/month
Shared By: Bryan Gilmore on Dec 16, 2012
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yield to mining vehicle traffic Details

Description

This is a great adventure route up a major corner system that eventually climbs an amazing chimney behind the obvious, large pillar in the middle of the wall. There is cruxy climbing on each of the 4 pitches, all with just enough pro to make it reasonable. But, a fall anywhere would be less than ideal! This route, like the other new routes on this wall put up over the last few seasons, serves up a healthy portion of CHOSS. But, if you're a seasoned San Juan adventurer, you should find enjoyment throughout. :O

Location

It is about halfway between Bird Brain Boulevard and the Racing Stripes. This ascends very obvious corners leading to giant pillar on wall. See the pic.

Protection

We brought a double set of cams to a #3 Camalot, one #4, and a set of stoppers. Pins could be useful. Bring a 70m rope. Four raps gets you down with a bit of easy scrambling to reach the last rap anchor - all from stout trees. The second rap can be done with one rope, the others are all rope stretchers.

Photos

phil wortmann
Colorado Springs, Co.
 
phil wortmann   Colorado Springs, Co.
 
This route is a great addition to the Dark Side. We found every pitch to be time consuming due the wet snow, and that the route is new enough that the climbing and gear placements are definitely not obvious. Each pitch was fairly sustained and thought provoking. Just keep moving and trust that you'll find something....

The last pitch through the chimney definitely makes this a big-boy route! Props to the FA crew. Very runout, but the chimney gives you some security. Apr 23, 2013