Type: Sport, Mixed, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS: 37.98459, -107.70051
FA: 2019
Page Views: 866 total · 11/month
Shared By: Steve House on Sep 25, 2019
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Climb the bolted groove to the top and a two-bolt anchor on the right at the top. You need 13 draws plus something for the anchor.

My goal here is to create a well protected pitch of dry-tooling for climbers leading at this grade. That is to say, there are a lot of bolts! Most of the climbing at Camp Bird (and the Dark Side) (at this grade) is runout or trad. Hopefully this fills a niche.

Location Suggest change

This route, and its neighbor, Eighteen, are on the front of the buttress between Slippery When Wet (uphill) and Slip Sliding Away (downhill). The stainless steel hangers should be visible from the road as they protect a black dish-like feature that provides fun stemming.

For this route, you do have to scramble up from the left, to the start of the climbing to clip the first bolt (about 30-40'). I was assuming that the belayer would stand on the road. There is no anchor right at the base of the route. You can lower from the anchor back to the road with a 60m rope.

The anchor is 2 bolts (in 2019) is 2 bolts equalized with a chunk of 9mm rope and 2 lockers <em>in-situ</em> for lowering.

Protection Suggest change

All 3.5" stainless bolts placed in 2019.

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