Type: Trad, Ice, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: M. Kennedy
Page Views: 7,280 total · 72/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Jan 17, 2011
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Climb can be broken up many ways, and many might prefer to simul sections of moderate terrain.

P1. Ascend a couple short steps of easy ice or mixed that finish at a tree with slings (WI3, ~100').

A short stretch of snow leads to the obvious second pitch.

P2. Continue up a long pitch of usually thin ice. Belay at fixed rock gear in the left wall (WI4, ~175').

P3/4. Climb 300-400' of snow and short easy ice or mixed steps. This leads to the upper gully.

P5. Continue up low-angle but usually thin ice leading up the start of the upper gully. Belay at fixed pin on the right (WI3/4, ~160')

P6. The gully gets a little steeper, and the ice is still usually thin. Belay at a nest of fixed rock gear in the left wall (WI3/4, ~200).

P7. This is the steepest and best part of the upper gully. Belay off screws or continue up snow to a tree with slings (WI4, ~180').


This is left of Gravity's Rainbow. The gully starts right off the road.


A selection of screws short - medium and a few pins.


Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
2-10-11: a very nasty, wet avalanche ripped down this gully on Saturday with 2 teams of 5 people in it. No one was hurt, but someone needed a spatula to clean out their shorts afterwords.
Be VERY careful on these south-facing routes on warm, sunny days following storms!! Feb 15, 2011
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
atfarley farley   Salt Lake City, UT
Don't climb when slushy:
youtube.com/watch?feature=p… Jun 29, 2012