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Routes in Lower Bridge to Scottish Gullies

Boat Ramp T WI4
Bridging the Gap T,S WI4 M7-
Chasing Tail TR M7
Chinese Water Torture M8
Circling Vultures WI3 M7
Cookie Monster S M9+
Culminator T WI4-5
Dizzy Curtain WI4 M3-4
Dizzy with a Vision T WI5 M7+
Dr. Delam T WI4-5 M4-5
Escape Clause T,TR WI5-6
Farrah Faucet T,S WI5- M6 PG13
Fudgesicle T,TR WI4+ M6
LeSaucisson M5
Loch Ness Monster S M10-
Mighty Aphrodite S M8-9
Mothra S M9+
Popsicle T WI4-5
R of Super Dave T WI5 M5+
Seamstress T,S M8
Sisters of Mercy S WI4-5 M8
Slushy TR WI4+
Stone Free T WI5
Sunscream T WI4
Super Dave T M7+
Sweet and Sour M8-
Tic Tac T WI4+ M6-7
Tooth Decay aka Rhythm Method T WI5
Wildebeest M9
Winding T WI3-4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, Mixed, 90 ft
FA: Lucy Creamer on gear
Page Views: 1,947 total, 20/month
Shared By: Daniel Battin on Jan 4, 2010
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Beautiful direct overhanging line up the Dizzy Buttress. Small reachy holds that are mostly positive.

Location

This line is on the left (more prominent) side of the Dizzy Buttress.

Protection

Bolts, maybe one screw at the bottom if you're not cool with the first bolt at about 20 feet. Bolt anchors at the top.

Photos

I think it's important to note that this route has at least three recorded ascents on gear including the first ascent by Lucy. She preplaced 4-5 pieces on rappel and essentially headpointed the route. Despite rumors of absurdly long slings and other shenanigans, she led the route clean with pre-placed gear without ever having the gotten the route clean on toprope. She did not have excessive slings or tat protecting the route and the second clip (above the piton) still had serious ledge fall potential. It should also be noted that she was the first and only one working the route and many of the positive holds found today were thin and cryptic and far less positive than they are now. I know because I belayed her on multiple attempts including her redpoint.

That said, Andres Marin just redpointed the route ground up placing gear on lead. A proud ascent for someone who last year on-sighted the route on bolts. A beautiful line that has in the last year with the addition of bolts become one of the most popular mixed routes in the park. Feb 21, 2010