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Routes in Lower Bridge to Scottish Gullies

Boat Ramp T WI4
Bridging the Gap T,S WI4 M7-
Chasing Tail TR M7
Chinese Water Torture M8
Circling Vultures WI3 M7
Cookie Monster S M9+
Culminator T WI4-5
Dizzy Curtain WI4 M3-4
Dizzy with a Vision T WI5 M7+
Dr. Delam T WI4-5 M4-5
Escape Clause T,TR WI5-6
Farrah Faucet T,S WI5- M6 PG13
Fudgesicle T,TR WI4+ M6
LeSaucisson M5
Loch Ness Monster S M10-
Mighty Aphrodite S M8-9
Mothra S M9+
Popsicle T WI4-5
R of Super Dave T WI5 M5+
Seamstress T,S M8
Sisters of Mercy S WI4-5 M8
Slushy TR WI4+
Stone Free T WI5
Sunscream T WI4
Super Dave T M7+
Sweet and Sour M8-
Tic Tac T WI4+ M6-7
Tooth Decay aka Rhythm Method T WI5
Wildebeest M9
Winding T WI3-4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed
FA: Dave Morales (sp?) of Seattle or Dave Bangert?
Page Views: 2,015 total, 11/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 5, 2003
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a deceiving route. From the other side of the canyon, the crux of this climb looks like a merely wavy wall perhaps a touch beyond the vertical. Yet, from below, the crux feels like it overhangs 6-10 feet in 25. Not as steep as the heinous cave routes of Vail, but, nonetheless, biceps beware!

Find this route as the second area downstream from the lower bridge ascending a chunk of rock on the West side of the gorge. There appears to be a splitter crack in the middle of the wall. It lies just upstream from Popsicle and the hanging curtain of Dreamsicle.

Ascend moderate ice from the river to a good ledge below the rock. The pump starts early on the rock here with a bit of overhang. You may likely need to slot your hammer as the crack widens. Choke up high and reach a pick slot. From here, it gets trickier with some torqued picks in the crack or possibly balance on sloping face holds. Feet scratch around on sloping face holds. Rear back for a good pick slot. Long reaches to delicate pick slots on wedged chockstones move you up higher. Find another good pick slot. Match. From here you can move right onto the curtain if it is thick enough (not for me). Or, move left on rock until you gain a big flat edge. May the ice be thick and solid on top. Whoa! A pumper for such a short crux. This may be very desperate to fiddle with pro on this headwall.

Definitely more desperate than Tic Tac or Jesus Built My Finger Crack.

Protection

For the route we did, bring rock gear to about 2 1/2" plus screws/slings. There were no bolts.

Add: shows an entirely different route (with bolts) than what we understood to be Super Dave.

Toprope Protection

Ice screws.

Photos

Dave Morales led this back in 1998-99 for what can be presumed was the first ascent. Stevie Haston was primping the adjacent route on toprope for a BBC camera crew while Dave was in the bottom racking up. He indeed was wearing cutoff sweatpants over his tights and and a Star Trek t-shirt. He stepped up and styled the route, starting on the steep blunt arete hammering a fixed pin to protect the start then placing gear on lead on-sight while the 'pros' heckled him from the lower bridge for climbing with an 'Indian Creek' rack. Whether or not Dave did the first ascent of Hardline and/or Harderline, I know he led both of those routes on gear in '98 as well. I was there, as was my buddy Dan Scott who belayed him on Super Dave. Dave Morales is a JEDI. Incidentally, having never been to Indian Creek before, he, on his drive out from Seattle, detoured to on-sight free solo Incredible Hand Crack. Then he downclimbed it. No witnesses, but having climbed a lot with Dave that winter, I have no reason to doubt it.... Anyway, some random obscure trivia. Oct 23, 2015
erik wellborn
manitou springs
erik wellborn   manitou springs
This is a really, really fun route with good pro. Feb 10, 2010
Bryan Gilmore
New England
 
Bryan Gilmore   New England
 
He put this, and others, up in the winter of 1999 wearing sweat pants and a Star-Trek T-shirt, no shit. I hear he still gets after it once in a while! Dec 15, 2009
Jason Nelson
SLC, UT
Jason Nelson   SLC, UT
I'm assuming it was Dave Bangert who did the FA on this, but I'm not 100% on that. Feb 12, 2009