Elevation: 7,700 ft
GPS: 38.017, -107.675 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 98,558 total · 409/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Nov 29, 1999 with improvements by Igor S
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This section covers an area of ice climbs that are farmed within the Uncompaghre Gorge. Note, the original submission didn't seem to match the area.

Through volunteer work from lots of dedicated individuals, this ice park has been created to host a great wealth of routes of all sorts of variety of difficulty and style. There are rules for the park. Annually, there is a fabulous ice festival in January with a terrific ice competition and great demonstrations and lectures. Enjoy!

Thanks to a $5,000 donation from the Access Fund, a $7,000 donation from the Ouray Chamber Resort Association, and a $20,000 anonymous donation; the Ouray Ice Park now has a reliable and constant source of water and a brand new plumbing and delivery system. Also, an extremely generous Ouray family (non-climbers) donated $30,000 in 2008 to help keep the park going.

One note, this area, especially the School Room and Below the Lower Bridge areas have become quite popular on winter weekends. Plan accordingly. A second note, often late in the afternoons, the spigots get turned on to restore/reform ice for your climbing pleasures. Be aware of this, and please don't complain. Finally, be particularly careful with the pipes, spigots, and infrastructure used to create the ice. It is the lifeline for the stuff you love.

Getting There

From Ouray, take US Highway 550 south. Shortly after you begin to ascend, take a right on the Camp Bird Mine Road. Park before the bridge which crosses the gorge. Alternatively, you can park in the southern end of town and hike up the road to the ice park.

Park season

The park is typically open from December 15 to April 7.

Membership

There is a volunteer membership for the ice park which can be purchased annually. Its revenues help to support the continued creation of wonderful ice climbing in this venue. Also, this membership and its card can provide discounts at local Ouray establishments. Consider supporting them. Ice Park shirts are available at the Ice Park for sale. You can contact Erin Eddy at 970.325.4288 for more info.

Ice Park website

There is a website that provides additional information.

For an ice video by Ouray Ice Park: vimeo.com/57924628.

History

Climbers have visited this area at least since the 1970s. In 1994, Bill Whitt and Gary Wild started to farm ice with hoses, pipe, and showerheads off the 3 foot pipe that connects a reservoir to a hydroelectric plant. In 1997, this area became an official ice climbing park with the amazing cooperation between a local climber who leases his property along the gorge, the city of Ouray, the county of Ouray, and the Forest Service. Apparently, this has resulted in a winter revival of the area with $4 million brought into the area a year. This goes to show how climbers can work with a variety of groups and create a win-win situation for all!

Phone number

There is a phone number listed at the Ice Park Office, 970-325-4288.

Gear Rentals

You can rent ice tools, crampons, boots, helmets, etc. at the Ouray Mountain Sports (970-325-4284, ouraysports.com, 732 Main St.) or the San Juan Mountain Guides (970-325-4925, ourayclimbing.com, 474 Main St. - moving 4/10 below Backstreet Bagel) in town.

Lost Tools

Per Climbing Vol. 280, Bill Leo, owner of Ouray Mountain Sports, keeps a big magnet that can help retrieve tools dropped into the river.

Lodging

There are many options for lodging in the area.

The Ouray Victorian Inn offers both hotel room and condominium options. 800-846-8729.

Ouray Realty & Rentals at 609 Main St., 866-325-0482 has many options for rentals for groups or those seeking more room.

There is a Comfort Inn on 5th Ave. with wifi.

There is the Wiesbaden with its vapor caves on site.

There is the Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs with its hot springs. 970-325-4981 or 800-327-5080. 45 Third Avenue.

Hot Springs

There are a few options for apres ice climbing soaking:

The Ouray Hot Springs has multiple outdoor pools that range from 70 F to 106 F that are open until 9pm most days. The cost is $10/day/person. There are multiday discounts. No alcohol is allowed. Main St., here is a little info on our largest pool: Ouray Hot Springs Pool. 970-325-7073

The Wiesbaden has natural vapor caves at 108 F and outdoor pool from 99 F to 102 F with hot springs (77 F to 128 F) available when not full for $15/3 hours/person. No smoking within 3 months of soaking is allowed. 625 5th St. 970-325-4358.

Additional video

151 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

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Classic Climbing Routes at Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray Ice Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4-5
 26
Brass Tacks
Trad, Ice
WI5
 24
Popsicle
Trad, Ice
WI4-5
 26
Paranoia
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4+
 36
Cartman's Mom
Trad, TR, Ice
WI3-4
 38
Tangled Up In Blue
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4+
 34
Berserker
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4
 102
Pick o' the Vic
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4
 26
The Verminator
Trad, TR, Ice
WI5
 17
La Ventana
Trad, TR, Ice
M8-9
 10
Mighty Aphrodite
Sport, Mixed
WI3-4
 36
Chinpokomon
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4-5
 32
Pinkeye
Trad, TR, Ice
WI4-5
 39
Fingerbang
Trad, TR, Ice
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI4 M6-7
 16
Jesus Christ Built My Finger Crack
Trad, Mixed, Ice
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI4+ M6-7
 46
Tic Tac
Trad, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brass Tacks Between the Bridges
 26
WI4-5 Trad, Ice
Popsicle Lower Bridge to Scott…
 24
WI5 Trad, Ice
Paranoia Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 26
WI4-5 Trad, TR, Ice
Cartman's Mom S Park
 36
WI4+ Trad, TR, Ice
Tangled Up In Blue Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 38
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Berserker Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 34
WI4+ Trad, TR, Ice
Pick o' the Vic Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 102
WI4 Trad, TR, Ice
The Verminator Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 26
WI4 Trad, TR, Ice
La Ventana Five Fingers area
 17
WI5 Trad, TR, Ice
Mighty Aphrodite Lower Bridge to Scott…
 10
M8-9 Sport, Mixed
Chinpokomon S Park
 36
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Pinkeye S Park
 32
WI4-5 Trad, TR, Ice
Fingerbang S Park
 39
WI4-5 Trad, TR, Ice
Jesus Christ Built My Finge… Alcove/Pic of the Vic…
 16
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b WI4 M6-7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
Tic Tac Lower Bridge to Scott…
 46
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI4+ M6-7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray Ice Park »

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