Avg: 3.9 from 114 votes
|Type:||Aid, 1800 ft, 16 pitches, Grade VI|
|FA:||Charlie Porter, 1972(?)|
|Page Views:||45,682 total · 314/month|
|Shared By:||Stymingersfink on Apr 29, 2008|
|Admins:||M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
This route was FA'd in November 1972 by Charlie Porter on his third attempt. Check the SuperTopo Yosemite BigWalls website or book for the full backstory on this historic route, as well as recent conditions.
Near the parking area at the Meadow, there is a large boulder field running nearly all the way down the slope. This is a great access line to check out the base of the climb, or perhaps return to the vehicle for the next load of gear. However, this is not the best way to approach the climb with anything resembling a load of anything. I did it once with a loaded haul bag, but I was still young and dumb then.
The best approach also departs from the parking area at the Meadow, heads a short distance west along the road, then due north along the obvious trail to the base of the Nose. Follow the trail as it skirts around the base of the wall to the east. Even though you are not yet on the wall, it would be prudent to wear a lid while anywhere near the base, as something could be dropped or knocked loose at any time from above. On one occasion, I happened to booty a #12 Wallnut that hit the ground not far from where I was standing, the climbers far enough up the stone to be out of sight.
Beware of bears, and do not pack food to the base until you have fixed the first pitch or two and are ready to haul. On one occasion, we hung the haul bags from a rivit at the base of ZM 20' off the ground. While I was fixing pitches above (and my partner off to hike in another load), a savvy bear stood on his hind legs and managed to physically remove the bag from the wall, tearing a 6" hole in the side of the bag and rummaging through just to see if there were any goodies to be found. Trowing pitons at him from above did little to discourage him, the bag will forever carry those scars.
2 ea: BD Peckers (each size proves handy)
2 ea: Hybrid Cams blk/blu - yelo/red (alien or equivalent metolius - for the existing sawed angle placements)
2-3 ea cams TCU -->#4 Camalot
1-2 #5 or #6 camalot, depending on how you feel about leading 5.9 lb OW while 1600' off the deck.
ballnuts (reportedly... I think I cam-hooked through the "ballnutz necessary" section)
1 LA (long, thin) for hand placing above the nipple
Yes, it's been done clean, reportedly hammerless even.
For some real fun, cam hook the Nipple Pitch, allowing you to leave the majority of the rack at the anchor (bring some biners, a quickdraw, the LA, a few smaller cams and one of the largest cams). Before traversing too far, one can step to the bottom rung of the aiders, reach down and clip an anchor added during the Huber's free-ascent workings. This should keep you off your belayer/haulbags and out of the open dihedral from P9 if you should happen to whip. Cam-hooking the Nipple pitch will also make it a quick, easy clean for the second, though once you start you're committed to the plan, else they will have to lower off gear (leaving it behind) or aid through it themselves.