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Routes in Southeast Face of El Cap

Dawn Wall Free T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
East Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ephemeron T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Hamas Fights For Freedom A5+
Mescalito T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
Native Son 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
New Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
North America Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Scorched Earth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 PG13
Shortest Straw, The A4-
South Seas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Tangerine Trip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Tribal Rite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Virginia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Zenyatta Mondatta A3+
Zodiac C3
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Type: Trad, Aid, 2500 ft, 25 pitches, Grade VI
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,368 total · 54/month
Shared By: 20 kN on May 31, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details
Access Issue: El Capitan, Southeast Face has route closures until July 15, 2018. Details

Description

New Dawn is a beautiful, exposed, clean route that is often used for access to the Wall of Early Morning Light. It is a great route for those looking for a legitimate challenge. It is a good route for those who have completed the Shield and Zodiac and are looking for something a bit harder. New Dawn is roughly the same difficulty as Mescalito.

Bailing may require some downaiding and a few pendulums. The route is mostly clear of runoff during a summer rainstorm, but in the winter sheets of ice tend to strike portions of the route making for a dangerous situation. It's a good idea to fix the first three pitches, then cruise to P7 on the first night. Pitch 11 has a bivy if you can make it that far on the first night.

The route has been done clean, but we used a hammer on a few pitches. P5 involves overhaning climbing on pin scars and I found offset cams dident stick too well. Sawed angles were great for P5. When I climbed P4 the fixed gear was missing so I had to resort to small beaks through the crux.

On P10 you can cut across onto the Nose if you want, or wait until P14 and cross onto Wall of Early Morning Light.

Protection

6 beaks: 2 ea
6 LAs: 1 ea #1, 4
2 ea #2, 3
5 angles: 1 ea 1/2 -11/4"
6 sawed angles: 2 ea 5/8", 3/4", 1"
3 z-tons (optional)
nuts: 2 ea (offsets useful)
offse micro nuts: 2 ea
cams: 2 ea .33-1.25"
3 ea 1.5-4.5"
offset cams: 1-2 ea .33-1.25"
hooks: 2 ea, including large
cam hooks
10 heads
20 rivet hangers (inc. cinch & keyhole)

Photos

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Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Say, that's a great write up on the route!!! Nice effort! Sep 25, 2013
A 4.5inch cam is a #3 camalot? Apr 14, 2016
20 kN

  5.8+ A3
20 kN    
  5.8+ A3
No, it's not. That means you need cams that will protect a 4.5" wide crack, which in the case of BD Camalots that would be a #5 or a fairly tipped out #4. Apr 14, 2016

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