Type: Trad, Aid, 2500 ft, 25 pitches, Grade VI
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,988 total · 59/month
Shared By: 20 kN on May 31, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


New Dawn is a beautiful, exposed, clean route that is often used for access to the Wall of Early Morning Light. It is a great route for those looking for a legitimate challenge. It is a good route for those who have completed the Shield and Zodiac and are looking for something a bit harder. New Dawn is roughly the same difficulty as Mescalito.

Bailing may require some downaiding and a few pendulums. The route is mostly clear of runoff during a summer rainstorm, but in the winter sheets of ice tend to strike portions of the route making for a dangerous situation. It's a good idea to fix the first three pitches, then cruise to P7 on the first night. Pitch 11 has a bivy if you can make it that far on the first night.

The route has been done clean, but we used a hammer on a few pitches. P5 involves overhaning climbing on pin scars and I found offset cams dident stick too well. Sawed angles were great for P5. When I climbed P4 the fixed gear was missing so I had to resort to small beaks through the crux.

On P10 you can cut across onto the Nose if you want, or wait until P14 and cross onto Wall of Early Morning Light.


6 beaks: 2 ea
6 LAs: 1 ea #1, 4
2 ea #2, 3
5 angles: 1 ea 1/2 -11/4"
6 sawed angles: 2 ea 5/8", 3/4", 1"
3 z-tons (optional)
nuts: 2 ea (offsets useful)
offse micro nuts: 2 ea
cams: 2 ea .33-1.25"
3 ea 1.5-4.5"
offset cams: 1-2 ea .33-1.25"
hooks: 2 ea, including large
cam hooks
10 heads
20 rivet hangers (inc. cinch & keyhole)


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Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Say, that's a great write up on the route!!! Nice effort! Sep 25, 2013
A 4.5inch cam is a #3 camalot? Apr 14, 2016
20 kN

  5.8+ A3
20 kN    
  5.8+ A3
No, it's not. That means you need cams that will protect a 4.5" wide crack, which in the case of BD Camalots that would be a #5 or a fairly tipped out #4. Apr 14, 2016