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Routes in Southeast Face

Dawn Wall Free T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
East Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hamas Fights For Freedom A5+
Mescalito T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3
Native Son 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
New Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
North America Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3
Scorched Earth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 PG13
Shortest Straw, The A4-
South Seas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Tangerine Trip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+
Tribal Rite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+
Virginia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Zenyatta Mondatta A3+
Zodiac C3
Type: Aid, 2500 ft, 18 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Charlie Porter And John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973
Page Views: 8,222 total, 68/month
Shared By: Rusty Reno on Jan 27, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details


I'm not the person to describe this route, because I did it a zillion years ago when it had no piton scars (and we had no cams). Consult a recent topo. Nonetheless, I can say that, overall, the Tangerine Trip is a classic second generation El Cap route -- not an obvious line, but a honest, old-fashioned nail-up. The route ascends the most consistently overhanging part of El Cap, and there are no ledges. It's a good vertical adventure.

One very important warning. There is a sharp edge toward the top of pitch two (see topo). Please be careful not to jumar with the rope hanging over this edge (see photo below). Unfortunately, while doing the Pacific Ocean Wall later in the spring of 1979, I watched Chris Robbins fall to his death when his rope was cut while jumaring.


There is a beautiful little forest along the base of the east facing side of El Cap. Just right (further east) of this wooded area is a massive plug of grey diorite granite that has rotted out, forming a large, shallow cave. The route begins on the left margin of this shallow cave


As I mentioned, I have no recent information. When I did the route with Charles Cole in 1979, the bolts were quarter inch and many were missing hangers -- not pleasant. I encourage others to update.
Major rock fall on pitch 2 of the original start. Refer to super topo forums, but it doesn't go anymore. If you have to climb the trip do the lost in America start Oct 25, 2017
Tito Krull 1  
Climbed last fall, with the Virgina start up to pitch 4. we did this route with minimal hammering, one thing i have noticed is people are too quick to bring out the hammer on this thing, almost every piece is fixed where you would need to hammer! The Trip is a very forced line, many ladders of rivits and bolts, in many pitches the true line would go with some VERY serious heading in no crack corner systems, but the bolt ladders make this route a great into to STEEP aid climbing at the grade. the cruxes are short and have bolts either before or after where its tricky. a lower out line can be useful, most pitches that traverse are steep enough to just cut the pigs loose and let em fly. but there was one pitch where the rope would drag over rock pretty harshly. we hauled on a 60m rope and tied it in short to use as lower line. CLIMB ON!!! Jan 7, 2016
Eric Foster
Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
Eric Foster   Chandler/Flagstaff, AZ
I believe that Erik Sloan did most of the replacing of rivets and bolts on this one about 4/5? years ago with a buddy of mine. Props to him as he has probably replaced over 1000 bolts and rivets on the captain and other rocks in the valley over the years. Feb 7, 2012
Ranger Matt
Yosemite NP
5.9 A2
Ranger Matt   Yosemite NP
5.9 A2
Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.

We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs. Nov 1, 2011
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.7 C2-
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.7 C2-
Easy climbing, steep hauling, and the ability to make some fast time on the bolt ladders make this the easiest route over on the right side. Certainly not the best climbing though. Zodiac is definitely a step up in difficulty, but WAAAAAY better. Oct 9, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Excellent trip report:… Feb 26, 2010
Climbed this 5/22-5/24/09. We decided on the C3 version. This route currently goes at 5.8 C3/A2. Tons of bomber rivets thanks to the ASCA where the biggest whippers used to be taken on this route historically.

If you don't want beta, then don't read this.

3 ea. .3"- 2"
1 BD #3
1 BD #4 Glad I had the number 4.
2 Cam hooks (medium)
1 Bat hook (Real bathook not the one on a talon)
1 Grappling Hook (Large hook much more necessary than cliffhanger)
1 Cliffhanger (medium hook)
1.5 Sets of nuts, micro offsets useful.
10 Rivet hangers. There are bolts to clip through rivet sections, don't have to leave many except for directionals.
Heads: 2 sm., 2 med., 2 lg. I could hook around 2-3 blown heads, needed to place one on the ascent.
A2 version: bring a 3/4" and a 1" saw off.
A few other KBs and LAs might be nice if fixed gear is blown, 1 RURP.

  • Pitches 1-4 were WET, and real slimy. Running back and forth to get the penjis on 4 was exciting, slipping across slime, diving for the fixed pro. Linked 3-4 w/ 60m.
  • If you fix to 4 on day one, the wall is not so steep at this point that you can't swing down to the anchors of virginia. Prolly don't have to do much downaiding if any.
  • Pitch 5 was a breeze, lots of fixed gear. I'd give it a C3-.
  • Bivyed at the top of 6, nice bivy but the top of 7 is nicer.
  • Pitch 8 was the real crux at C3. Grateful I wore my free shoes. A2 version takes those sawed angles.
  • Bivyed at top of 12. Ledge has an unsupported corner, puts stress on ledge tubing. Swallows at 13 will sh#t on you, but it is much more protected from elements in storm than 12 or 14. Make it to 14 if you can.
  • Note: A bit of traversing and wandering on this route. Leave plenty of pro for your second so they can clean pitches quickly.
Jun 10, 2009