Type: Aid, 2500 ft, 18 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Charlie Porter And John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973
Page Views: 10,421 total · 73/month
Shared By: Rusty Reno on Jan 27, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

I'm not the person to describe this route, because I did it a zillion years ago when it had no piton scars (and we had no cams). Consult a recent topo. Nonetheless, I can say that, overall, the Tangerine Trip is a classic second generation El Cap route -- not an obvious line, but a honest, old-fashioned nail-up. The route ascends the most consistently overhanging part of El Cap, and there are no ledges. It's a good vertical adventure.

One very important warning. There is a sharp edge toward the top of pitch two (see topo). Please be careful not to jumar with the rope hanging over this edge (see photo below). Unfortunately, while doing the Pacific Ocean Wall later in the spring of 1979, I watched Chris Robbins fall to his death when his rope was cut while jumaring.

Location

There is a beautiful little forest along the base of the east facing side of El Cap. Just right (further east) of this wooded area is a massive plug of grey diorite granite that has rotted out, forming a large, shallow cave. The route begins on the left margin of this shallow cave

Protection

As I mentioned, I have no recent information. When I did the route with Charles Cole in 1979, the bolts were quarter inch and many were missing hangers -- not pleasant. I encourage others to update.

Photos