Type: Aid, 2300 ft (697 m), 17 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson
Page Views: 5,317 total · 52/month
Shared By: B L on Jan 19, 2013
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

Excellent route. Sustained A3, it adds up towards the end. In terms of danger, the crux is p4, the Coral Sea. It's best to link this with p3 for a 190' pitch. Other cruxes are the Wing, which is steep, and Golden Nipple, a slabby pitch at the end.
There is classic nailing to do on several pitches. It overall feels fresh. I don't think there is many more holes on the hard pitches than there were on the FA(?) At least for the Coral Sea this is obvious from the original topo.
Every pitch stands out in some way.
The only ledge is after p2. Every anchor is good.

Location

On the south east face of El Cap, between Highway to Hell and El Cap Tree. Start by climbing up a tree and get on the wall after 20 feet where there is a jug/ledge on the wall. best start of any el cap route i'm sure!

Protection

a full aid rack. pins, hooks, beaks, a couple heads in case, stoppers, cams to 4 inches.

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