Avg: 3.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches|
|FA:||Roger Briggs, Eric Doub, 1987|
|Page Views:||5,727 total · 80/month|
|Shared By:||hkennedy on Jul 29, 2015|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
P1. Climb the first 5.10 pitch of the Casual Route, and belay on a small ledge with 2 pitons just bellow a thin seam.
P2. Thought provoking 5.11 climbing with a mix of thin cracks and face climbing. Belay on a sloping ledge with solid cams about 25 feet below the obvious, right-facing corner above.
P3. 5.11+ stemming in a perfect right-facing corner with some of the best rock on the Diamond! It's nice to have a solid set of RPs for this pitch, as the gear is thin but good when you get it. In the middle of the corner, a 2-bolt station was added for the Honeymoon is Over. Skip this station, bust left around the corner, and face climb up brilliant rock to a fixed piton/bolt anchor.
P4. Climb thin 5.11- off the belay with very little pro options until a fixed piton about 25-ish feet off the anchor. Higher on the pitch, a bolt protects a 5.12- section that trends left. Belay on a natural anchor to the left in a small corner.
P5. Climb strait above the anchor until it's possible to head right into a flared crack system. A bit of a spicy section above the flared cracks leads to an incredible traverse left into the crux sequence (5.12b). It is pumpy climbing with no stopper moves, hang on for the ride! Once at Table Ledge, head right 15 feet, and belay on a small ledge.
P6. Climb start up cracks above and right of belay for 30 meters, 5.11c climbing with good pro.
P7. A long 5.10 pitch with mixed cracks leads to the top of the wall.