Type: Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches
FA: Roger Briggs, Eric Doub, 1987
Page Views: 4,736 total · 79/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Jul 29, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Eroica may be one of the best lines on the Diamond. The climbing is sustained, the rock is incredible and each pitch has just the right amount of spicy to keep your mind engaged. This is an all-time outing and one of the better adventures in RMNP!

P1. Climb the first 5.10 pitch of the Casual Route, and belay on a small ledge with 2 pitons just bellow a thin seam.

P2. Thought provoking 5.11 climbing with a mix of thin cracks and face climbing. Belay on a sloping ledge with solid cams about 25 feet below the obvious, right-facing corner above.

P3. 5.11+ stemming in a perfect right-facing corner with some of the best rock on the Diamond! It's nice to have a solid set of RPs for this pitch, as the gear is thin but good when you get it. In the middle of the corner, a 2-bolt station was added for the Honeymoon is Over. Skip this station, bust left around the corner, and face climb up brilliant rock to a fixed piton/bolt anchor.

P4. Climb thin 5.11- off the belay with very little pro options until a fixed piton about 25-ish feet off the anchor. Higher on the pitch, a bolt protects a 5.12- section that trends left. Belay on a natural anchor to the left in a small corner.

P5. Climb strait above the anchor until it's possible to head right into a flared crack system. A bit of a spicy section above the flared cracks leads to an incredible traverse left into the crux sequence (5.12b). It is pumpy climbing with no stopper moves, hang on for the ride! Once at Table Ledge, head right 15 feet, and belay on a small ledge.

P6. Climb start up cracks above and right of belay for 30 meters, 5.11c climbing with good pro.

P7. A long 5.10 pitch with mixed cracks leads to the top of the wall.

Location

It is right of Casual Route.

Protection

2 sets of RPs, doubles from grey TCU - #1 BD cam, singles BD #2/3, and a good selection of slings.

Photos