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North Face - Comici

Name: North Face - Comici
Rating: 3.9

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British A0

Routes in Cime Grande

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cima Grande South Face / Normal / Ordinary Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Cime Grande, West Face -- "Dulfer" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hasse-Brandler T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	North Face - Comici T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
	Spigolo Dibona - Cima Grande T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
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Type:	Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1475 ft (447 m), 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933
Page Views:	14,366 total · 80/month
Shared By:	B L on Jul 9, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascent of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
The crux pitch, if free climbed, is the first difficult pitch.

Location

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.

Protection

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.