Type: Trad, Alpine, 1475 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933
Page Views: 7,847 total · 62/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascent of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
The crux pitch, if free climbed, is the first difficult pitch.

Location

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.

Protection

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.
rpc
Portland, OR
 
rpc   Portland, OR
 
the best climb we've done in the Dolomites & one of the best lines we've done anywhere. what a proud line up a gorgeous face! Feb 15, 2012
I took my first-ever leader fall on the Comici in early August 1964. Wrecked my belayer and retreated. Sep 21, 2014
Does this line have any bolted anchors? Mar 13, 2018
Amrutha Renganathan
Atlanta, GA
Amrutha Renganathan   Atlanta, GA
Ok are the 5.10’s in Europe harder than the USA or something? If it’s just a 5.10, why are people so intimidated by this route? Jul 9, 2018