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Routes in Cime Grande

Cime Grande, West Face -- "Dulfer" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Face - Comici T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1475 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933
Page Views: 6,959 total, 61/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascend of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
A great climb!
The crux pitch, if freeclimbed, is the first hard one and the last pitch of the difficulties.

Location

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.

Protection

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.
I took my first-ever leader fall on the Comici in early August 1964. Wrecked my belayer and retreated. Sep 21, 2014
rpc
 
rpc  
 
the best climb we've done in the Dolomites & one of the best lines we've done anywhere. what a proud line up a gorgeous face! Feb 15, 2012