Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1475 ft (447 m), 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933
Page Views: 15,511 total · 80/month
Shared By: B L on Jul 9, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascent of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
The crux pitch, if free climbed, is the first difficult pitch.

Location Suggest change

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.

Protection Suggest change

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.