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Areas in Bear Lake Trailheads

Bear Lake and Bear's Den 4 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 8
Chaos Canyon 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 7 / 7
Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge 28 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 12 / 0 / 37 / 40 / 40
Odessa Gorge 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 2 / 4 / 9

Description

From the Bear Lake trailheads, you can access plenty of snow, ice, and mixed climbs that range from cragging to full day adventures. One advantage of this area is the abundant parking in the non-summer months. Additionally, the popularity of snowshoeing tends to stamp down at least the first few miles of the approaches here.

This is a section that includes:

Chaos Canyon
- Hallett Peak - South Side
- Chaos Creek
Bear Lake & vicinity
- Bear Lake Ice
- Bear's Den
Tyndall Gorge/Emerald Lake
- Emerald Lake & vicinity
- Nymph Lake
- Hallett Peak
- South Face of Flattop Peak (including Dragon's Tail)
Odessa Gorge
- North Face of Flattop
- Notchtop)

Getting There

From the Beaver Meadows entrance of RMNP, take a left shortly after passing through the ranger station and drive past Moraine Park, Glacier Basin Campground/winter parking lot, Sprague Lake, Glacier Gorge trailhead, and to Bear Lake (at the end of the road).

64 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Lake Trailheads

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
The Hourglass
Trad, Ice
WI2 M2
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI3+ M6+
Bullet
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5
Hot Doggie
Trad, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M6-7
The Squid
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
M5+
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Chaos Couloir
Alpine 7 pitches
Flattop Gully
M4-5
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
M5-6
Englishman's Route
Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
M6+
Ole No. 2
Mixed
M5
Stem Corner
Trad, TR, Mixed
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
North Face (which actually faces NE)
Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13
Furry Thang
Sport, Mixed, Ice
The Hourglass Odessa Gorge > Flattop Mtn - N side WI3 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Emerald Lake / Ty… > Flattop Mtn - S side WI2 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Bullet Emerald Lake / Ty… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice WI3+ M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Hot Doggie Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine
The Squid Emerald Lake / Ty… > Emerald Lake & vicinity WI5-6 M6-7 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Emerald Lake / Ty… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M5+ Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Chaos Couloir Chaos Canyon > Hallett S Side Alpine 7 pitches
Flattop Gully Odessa Gorge > Flattop Mtn - N side
Great Dihedral to Upper But… Emerald Lake / Ty… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M4-5 Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Englishman's Route Emerald Lake / Ty… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M5-6 Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Ole No. 2 Bear Lake and Bea… > Bear's Den M6+ Mixed
Stem Corner Bear Lake and Bea… > Bear's Den M5 Trad, TR, Mixed
North Face (which actually… Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Enter The Dragon (aka Old R… Emerald Lake / Ty… > Flattop Mtn - S side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Furry Thang Bear Lake and Bea… > Bear's Den 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13 Sport, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Bear Lake Trailheads »

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