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Elevation: 9,450 ft
GPS: 40.31201, -105.64578
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 4, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Regulations DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the Bear Lake trailheads, you can access plenty of snow, ice, and mixed climbs that range from cragging to full day adventures. One advantage of this area is the abundant parking in the non-summer months. Additionally, the popularity of snowshoeing tends to stamp down at least the first few miles of the approaches here.

This is a section that includes:

Chaos Canyon
- Hallett Peak - South Side
- Chaos Creek
Bear Lake & vicinity
- Bear Lake Ice
- Bear's Den
Tyndall Gorge/Emerald Lake
- Emerald Lake & vicinity
- Nymph Lake
- Hallett Peak
- South Face of Flattop Peak (including Dragon's Tail)
Odessa Gorge
- North Face of Flattop
- Notchtop)

Getting There Suggest change

From the Beaver Meadows entrance of RMNP, take a left shortly after passing through the ranger station and drive past Moraine Park, Glacier Basin Campground/winter parking lot, Sprague Lake, Glacier Gorge trailhead, and to Bear Lake (at the end of the road).

70 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Bear Lake Trailheads Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Lake Trailheads

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 14
The Hourglass
Trad, Ice
WI2- M1 Mod. Snow
 113
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3+ M6
 21
Bullett
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5
 5
Hot Doggie
Trad, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M6-7
 16
The Squid
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow
 30
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
M5-
 27
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
M5-6
 5
Englishman's Route
Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
M6+
 17
Ole No. 2
Mixed
M5+
 14
Stem Corner
Trad, TR, Mixed
WI2 M2 Mod. Snow
 11
Smoke and Dragons Couloir
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow
 44
North Face (which actually faces…
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow
 21
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13
 14
Furry Thang
Sport, Mixed, Ice
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WI5+ M9+ PG13
 5
Smokey
Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Hourglass Odessa Gorge > Flattop Mtn - N side
 14
WI3 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 113
WI2- M1 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Bullett Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 21
WI3+ M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Hot Doggie Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 5
WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine
The Squid Emerald Lake /… > Emerald Lake & vicinity
 16
WI5-6 M6-7 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 30
WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Great Dihedral to Upper But… Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 27
M5- Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Englishman's Route Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 5
M5-6 Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Ole No. 2 Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 17
M6+ Mixed
Stem Corner Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 14
M5+ Trad, TR, Mixed
Smoke and Dragons Couloir Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 11
WI2 M2 Mod. Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
North Face (which actually… Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Enter The Dragon (aka Old R… Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
Furry Thang Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13 Sport, Mixed, Ice
Smokey Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WI5+ M9+ PG13 Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Bear Lake Trailheads »

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