Elevation: 9,450 ft
GPS: 40.312, -105.646 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 88,560 total · 1,696/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 4, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

From the Bear Lake trailheads, you can access plenty of snow, ice, and mixed climbs that range from cragging to full day adventures. One advantage of this area is the abundant parking in the non-summer months. Additionally, the popularity of snowshoeing tends to stamp down at least the first few miles of the approaches here.

This is a section that includes:

Chaos Canyon
- Hallett Peak - South Side
- Chaos Creek
Bear Lake & vicinity
- Bear Lake Ice
- Bear's Den
Tyndall Gorge/Emerald Lake
- Emerald Lake & vicinity
- Nymph Lake
- Hallett Peak
- South Face of Flattop Peak (including Dragon's Tail)
Odessa Gorge
- North Face of Flattop
- Notchtop)

Getting There

From the Beaver Meadows entrance of RMNP, take a left shortly after passing through the ranger station and drive past Moraine Park, Glacier Basin Campground/winter parking lot, Sprague Lake, Glacier Gorge trailhead, and to Bear Lake (at the end of the road).

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Lake Trailheads

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 12
The Hourglass
Trad, Ice
WI2- M2- Mod. Snow
 80
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI3 M6
 12
Bullett
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M6-7
 15
The Squid
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
M5+
 23
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 7
Chaos Couloir
Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
M4-5
 15
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
M5-6
 4
Englishman's Route
Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
M6+
 11
Ole No. 2
Mixed
M5+
 8
Stem Corner
Trad, TR, Mixed
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
 36
North Face (which actually faces…
Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow
 12
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13
 9
Furry Thang
Sport, Mixed, Ice
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M10- PG13
 5
Spider Nutz
Sport, Mixed
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WI5+ M9+ PG13
 3
Smokey
Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Hourglass Odessa Gorge > Flattop Mtn - N side
 12
WI3 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 80
WI2- M2- Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Bullett Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 12
WI3 M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
The Squid Emerald Lake /… > Emerald Lake & vicinity
 15
WI5-6 M6-7 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 23
M5+ Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Chaos Couloir Chaos Canyon > Hallett S Side
 7
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
Great Dihedral to Upper But… Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 15
M4-5 Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Englishman's Route Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 4
M5-6 Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Ole No. 2 Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 11
M6+ Mixed
Stem Corner Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 8
M5+ Trad, TR, Mixed
North Face (which actually… Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Enter The Dragon (aka Old R… Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
Furry Thang Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13 Sport, Mixed, Ice
Spider Nutz Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M10- PG13 Sport, Mixed
Smokey Bear Lake & Bea… > Bear's Den
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b WI5+ M9+ PG13 Sport, TR, Mixed, Ice
More Classic Climbs in Bear Lake Trailheads »

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