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Areas in Bear Lake Trailheads

Bear Lake and Bear's Den 4 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 8
Chaos Canyon 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 2 / 7 / 7
Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge 29 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 12 / 0 / 38 / 42 / 42
Odessa Gorge 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 2 / 4 / 9

Description

From the Bear Lake trailheads, you can access plenty of snow, ice, and mixed climbs that range from cragging to full day adventures. One advantage of this area is the abundant parking in the non-summer months. Additionally, the popularity of snowshoeing tends to stamp down at least the first few miles of the approaches here.

This is a section that includes:

Chaos Canyon
- Hallett Peak - South Side
- Chaos Creek
Bear Lake & vicinity
- Bear Lake Ice
- Bear's Den
Tyndall Gorge/Emerald Lake
- Emerald Lake & vicinity
- Nymph Lake
- Hallett Peak
- South Face of Flattop Peak (including Dragon's Tail)
Odessa Gorge
- North Face of Flattop
- Notchtop)

Getting There

From the Beaver Meadows entrance of RMNP, take a left shortly after passing through the ranger station and drive past Moraine Park, Glacier Basin Campground/winter parking lot, Sprague Lake, Glacier Gorge trailhead, and to Bear Lake (at the end of the road).

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Bear Lake Trailheads

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 12
The Hourglass
Trad, Ice
WI2 M2
 75
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI3+ M5-6
 11
Bullett
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5
 4
Hot Doggie
Trad, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M6-7
 14
The Squid
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
M5+
 22
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 7
Chaos Couloir
Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
M4-5
 10
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
M5-6
 4
Englishman's Route
Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
M6+
 9
Ole No. 2
Mixed
M5
 6
Stem Corner
Trad, TR, Mixed
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b M3-4 Mod. Snow
 10
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
 35
North Face (which actually faces NE)
Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13
 9
Furry Thang
Sport, Mixed, Ice
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M10- PG13
 5
Spider Nutz
Sport, Mixed
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Hourglass Odessa Gorge > Flattop Mtn - N side
 12
WI3 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 75
WI2 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Bullett Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
 11
WI3+ M5-6 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Hot Doggie Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 4
WI5 Trad, Ice, Alpine
The Squid Emerald Lake /… > Emerald Lake & vicinity
 14
WI5-6 M6-7 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
 22
M5+ Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Chaos Couloir Chaos Canyon > Hallett S Side
 7
Mod. Snow Snow, Alpine 7 pitches
Great Dihedral to Upper But… Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
 10
M4-5 Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Englishman's Route Emerald Lake /… > Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
 4
M5-6 Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Ole No. 2 Bear Lake and B… > Bear's Den
 9
M6+ Mixed
Stem Corner Bear Lake and B… > Bear's Den
 6
M5 Trad, TR, Mixed
Enter The Dragon (aka Old R… Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b M3-4 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
North Face (which actually… Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Furry Thang Bear Lake and B… > Bear's Den
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13 Sport, Mixed, Ice
Spider Nutz Bear Lake and B… > Bear's Den
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b M10- PG13 Sport, Mixed
More Classic Climbs in Bear Lake Trailheads »

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Prime Climbing Season
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