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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13
Bullett T WI3+ M5-6
Central Couloir Right T M2
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Hallett Couloir Mod. Snow
Left of Cleft M4 Steep Snow
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2 Steep Snow
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow
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Type: Mixed, Alpine, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,667 total · 39/month
Shared By: Kevin Landolt on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Nothing new here - people have been climbing Hallett's rock routes in winter for a long time. I found that Great Dihedral to Standard Route makes for an excellent mixed climb. The climbing is never desperate but is sustained and of high quality.

Notes:

Snow slopes at the base of the route can be avy prone.

A potentially dangerous cornice forms above the exit on Standard Route, and some tunneling is required to gain the summit ridge.

This route is not conditions dependent and makes for a great mid-winter climb.

Location

This is the obvious dihedral on the First Buttress.

Protection

A set of cams to 3 inches, hexes to BD #11, stoppers, pins, and Spectres.

Photos

Jason Killgore
boulder, co
Jason Killgore   boulder, co
Only climbed the 1st pitch. There is a pretty tenuous move after pulling the small roof. A green C3 goes in, but probably best not to test it. Jan 10, 2011
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Superb mixed climbing. No pins needed. A purple TCU is nice to have on the first pitch, otherwise kind of runout. One to do again and again. Aug 3, 2014
Justin Skaare   CO
 
Used a single rack with doubles 0.75 to 2. Linking the 1st and 2nd pitches with a 70 (maybe a 60?) is the way to go. With a pitch of unroped climbing in the gully splitting the dyhedral and upper buttress, you can climb this rig in four ~60m rope stretching pitches (2 on the dyhedral and 2 on the upper buttress). Never thought it was run out, but I did think it was awesome ... a spectacular mixed route! Jan 10, 2016
Jonathan White
highlands ranch, co
 
Jonathan White   highlands ranch, co
 
Someone added 2 pins at the top of pitch 2. Mar 7, 2016

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