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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 PG13
Bullett T WI3 M6
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Mixed, Alpine, 1000 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,483 total · 40/month
Shared By: Kevin Landolt on Dec 19, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Nothing new here - people have been climbing Hallett's rock routes in winter for a long time. I found that Great Dihedral to Standard Route makes for an excellent mixed climb. The climbing is never desperate but is sustained and of high quality.

Notes:

Snow slopes at the base of the route can be avy prone.

A potentially dangerous cornice forms above the exit on Standard Route, and some tunneling is required to gain the summit ridge.

This route is not conditions dependent and makes for a great mid-winter climb.

Location

This is the obvious dihedral on the First Buttress.

Protection

A set of cams to 3 inches, hexes to BD #11, stoppers, pins, and Spectres.

Photos

Jonathan White
littleton, co
 
Jonathan White   littleton, co
 
Someone added 2 pins at the top of pitch 2. Mar 7, 2016
Justin Skaare
Boulder, CO
 
Justin Skaare   Boulder, CO
 
Used a single rack with doubles 0.75 to 2. Linking the 1st and 2nd pitches with a 70 (maybe a 60?) is the way to go. With a pitch of unroped climbing in the gully splitting the dyhedral and upper buttress, you can climb this rig in four ~60m rope stretching pitches (2 on the dyhedral and 2 on the upper buttress). Never thought it was run out, but I did think it was awesome ... a spectacular mixed route! Jan 10, 2016
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
 
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
 
Superb mixed climbing. No pins needed. A purple TCU is nice to have on the first pitch, otherwise kind of runout. One to do again and again. Aug 3, 2014
Jason Killgore
boulder, co
Jason Killgore   boulder, co
Only climbed the 1st pitch. There is a pretty tenuous move after pulling the small roof. A green C3 goes in, but probably best not to test it. Jan 10, 2011