Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 PG13
Bullet T WI3+ M6+
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Mixed, Alpine, 900 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Wharton and David Isles, 1958
Page Views: 2,354 total, 34/month
Shared By: j wharton on Mar 6, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is my favorite winter route on Hallett; partly because my father did the first ascent (in summer) in 1958, and partly because the last pitch is steep and cool with tools and crampons. Like all Hallett routes, difficulty will depend on how much snow is sticking to the rock, or blocking your path. The final pitch is the crux. Check out the below link (scroll down) to see Wilford and Ferguson climbing the route in amazing conditions, as well as some other interesting photos of front range ice.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=321719&tn=40

I've never actually encountered any ice on the route, but I'm guessing late spring would most likely produce the conditions seen above.

Location

This is the big, obvious arch on the east facing ascpect of Hallett's North Face. You can approach the upper half of the route from the bottom of Hallett Chimney, or via the big, right-facing dihedral on the right.

Protection

Set and a half of cams, Stoppers.

Photos

erik wellborn
manitou springs
erik wellborn   manitou springs
Couldn't find an Englishman; so I did it with a crazy Irishman instead! He didn't seem to mind. Pretty cool as a mixed line. Steep and sustained. The final slab seems a wee bit runout, but maybe I was off-route. Mar 11, 2012