Avg: 3 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||as a summer rock route: William Buckingham and Bob Boucher, 1954. First winter ascent unknown.|
|Page Views:||7,349 total · 52/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Sheridan on Apr 6, 2009|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The route has likely been climbed as a mixed route before, so maybe this is just a rediscovery of an old route for a new generation. With that in mind, it's not too much of a stretch to give the mixed route a new name, like the route Left Chimney, which was often overlooked until someone renamed it Dreamweaver.
Enter The Dragon climbs the center of the south face of the Dragon Tail. Start by climbing up the Dead Elk Couloir and traversing into the top of a large snow ledge.
P1: Climb an iced up, right-facing corner system for a forty feet. Run the rope up easier terrain and belay on the left (150 feet, M4).
P2: Climb blocky, mixed terrain on the left side of the gully system past a pair of crux bulges. Again, belay on the left about 30 feet down from a steep chimney (150 feet, M4).
P3: Kick steps up and right, and climb the steep chimney past a fragile snow mushroom (unless you're lucky) then up easier terrain to a belay on the right (150 feet, M4).
P4: Climb up the left side of the gully past a short squeeze chimney with great featured rock then through a small overhang. Once past the overhang, angle up and right towards a notch in the southeast ridge of the Dragon Tail (150 feet, M4-).
P5: Climb up to the notch the work your way up the south west ridge until its possible to break right on a ledge system leading to the base of the east face of the summit block (100 feet, 5.6).
P6: We didn't climb pitch 6 due to the usual assortment of excuses: cold hands, bad weather, approaching darkness, etc. From the view from our highpoint and by looking at pictures later on, there looked to be about one pitch of 5.7 terrain remaining through steep but featured terrain.