This submission was originally part of single listing for Flattop. Due to reorganizational effort, this was split into 2 sections. The first is here.

In a fine little drainage between Hallett Peak and Flattop mountain, you will find a multitude of rock and snow/ice routes. There are many possible routes up and down Flattop (due north), Hallett (due south), and Andrew's Glacier (west).

For the purposes of organization, we'll limit this subarea to those mixed/ice routes on the southern aspect of the mountain which are approached from the Emerald Lake area.

There are at least 8 distinct routes and 2 variations here including:

Tyndall Glacier, WI2 M2
Dragontail Couloir, WI2 M2
Dragon Tooth aka Tower Gully, M2 mod snow
Flang, WI5 M5
various SE Face routes, up to 5.7 WI 2.

Getting There

Park at the Bear Lake Parking lot (newly renovated) at the end of Bear Lake Road. Hike to Emerald Lake. Skirt the lake and head up and right toward Flattop.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: Flattop Mountain - S side Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Flattop Mountain - S side

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2 M2
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
M2- Mod. Snow
Dragon's Tooth
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine
M1-2 Steep Snow PG13
Southeast Face Couloir aka S-Cou…
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Two Dragons
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M5-6 Steep Snow
Steep Is Flat
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2+ M1 Mod. Snow
Southeast Face
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dragon's Tail Couloir
WI2 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Dragon's Tooth
M2- Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine
Southeast Face Couloir aka…
M1-2 Steep Snow PG13 Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Two Dragons
M7 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
Steep Is Flat
M5-6 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Southeast Face
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2+ M1 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 2 pitches
Enter The Dragon (aka Old R…
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Flattop Mountain - S side »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
After a week of good settlement in March '05 we snowboarded this north west facing couloir from 12,200 directly to about 11,000 ft. We tried to go back and snowboard it again in May, but the weather never softened the couloir up, so we bailed east along the top of Flattop to a northeast couloir at 12,000 down to about 10,800. This area offers excellent ski/snowboard mountaineering, but the wind and snow conditions are fickle. Jun 1, 2005
Nice post Joel. .. My wife and I climbed the pictured gully on 6.18.05. It turned out to be a fun moderate snow climb to the summit of Flattop. I believe the route is described as West Couloir in Rossiter's RMNP guide. Straight forward approach, breaking off the Fern Lake trail at the junction with Notchtop and heading SW towards lake Helen and the obvious Ptarmigan glacier. The gully comes into view to the South shortly after passing Lake Helene, just East of the prominent snow fields. The climb followed an interesting gully on 40-50 degree snow, steepening to high 50s at the top. We didn't encounter any alpine ice as it was still pretty filled in with snow.

As a sidenote, looked like there were still some nice turns to be had in Notchtop couloir as viewed directly North of our position :) Jun 19, 2005
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
I think "high 50s might be an overstatement. An accurate inclonometer reading might be helpful! Like penis length, slope angles are usually over estimated. Mar 22, 2006