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Routes in Hallett Peak - mixed/ice

Analysis Paralysis T M6
Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 PG13
Bullett T WI3 M6
Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 R
Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4
East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Englishman's Route M5-6
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T M5+
Left of Cleft M4
Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13
North Face Direct M2-3
Ricochet T M5-6 PG13
Slit, The T M5-6
Tyndall Gully
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 130 ft, Grade IV
FA: Greg Sievers, Brad Grohusky
Page Views: 5,005 total · 24/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Jan 20, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This route is located below and (East) in front of the North Face of Hallett Peak. Directly below and left of Hallett Chimney, on the next feature lower down. It ascends a HUGE dihedral under a 15' roof.

Start with WI-3 for 30'-40', then climbs the left wall of the diheadral passing two, short OW sections on their left. the upper section of the dihedral gets thin and a KB will nicely fit a seam on the left wall. Climb to the roof.traverse to the left, under the roof, on a smooth face. Protection is found in small cracks in the roof. the crux is found on the outter corner of the roof, small nuts may protect you with blind placements. A short 15' section of narrow ledges will access a large bench above. A fixed pin and nut on the back wall allow a 60m rap. to the start.

This ice (and therefore) route forms up just about every year.

Addendum: an additional pitch has been done. See comments below.


2-3 ice screws. 3-5 hand sized cams. 3-6 small Aliens or TCUs and good selection of small-to-medium nuts. a few KB will make you feel better, too. I guess that basically says - full alpine rack.
The Great State -Colorado
  WI3+ M5+
CanDillo   The Great State -Colorado
  WI3+ M5+
Nothing that everyone hasn't already said here. Great route and great for a short day. P2 is not to be missed!! Unbeliveably good climbing and has great gear throughout. Highly recommended. Apr 10, 2016
This route doesn't look great from the ground, because the ice is so short, but the climbing is excellent. Jack Roberts and I did it in two pitches, which reduces rope drag and saves gear; there's a great stance and fixed anchor above the first-pitch roof. Jack found a good and much better-protected variation to the first-pitch crux, going to the right around the bulge instead of left up the lieback/offwidth. Carry a substantial rock rack for the second pitch: small wires to #3 Camalot/3.5 Friend. The crux slab traverse can be protected with small wires and half-inch cams in the roof overhead.

You can also do this route in three short pitches at M5 by climbing the first pitch, traversing to the right, and then climbing mixed ground and snow back up and left to the upper anchor. That anchor could use some public service, by the way: A 9 or 10 hex would do a great job of backing up the two old pins. You can rap the route with a 70m rope by downclimbing the easy ice at the bottom.

More photos: themountainworld.blogspot.c… Nov 2, 2009
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  WI3+ M5-6
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  WI3+ M5-6
Fun route - great ice and rock climbing with a speedy approach. Don't leave out the 2nd (or 3rd, depending on how you break it down) roof - not to be missed! Dec 11, 2017
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
This is a good route, especially with the extra JW pitch above. No pins are needed for the crux roof as it protects well with a couple cams and/or nuts. Apr 26, 2016
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
Awesome route! Been wanting to do this one for a while.

Wharton's additional pitch is super good. I think it's the best pitch on the route, even though the crux pitch is awesome as well. Good climb for a short day or bad weather. The whole route protects super well. Don't hesitate to give er a go! Dec 13, 2014
Mike Soucy
Longmont, CO
Mike Soucy   Longmont, CO
Climbed this route today. Fun and challenging rock climbing with tools. A couple of comments: we found a single rack from green C3 to #3, small/med nuts, and 3 ice screws to be plenty sufficient. We did, however, climb right of the offwidth. No pins necessary. Gear through the traverse is great (I tested it).
Also, we removed the fixed anchor at the top of the pitch and moved it ~20m climbers' left, to the base of the big dihedral.
The two pins (both short KBs) that constituted the established anchor were pretty bad.
Replaced them with a long KB and a stopper. Those headed up there soon might bring up a bit of cordage/webbing to beef it up as we were short and left only single strand 5mil. Dec 7, 2011
Brian McMahon and I climbed this route today in full Scottish conditions--a proper day out! We had intended to try something on Hallett's North Face, but we couldn't even see the wall from 50' away! Just thought I'd add that I climbed another pitch above the terrace in the topo. Going straight up another big dihedral and out some roofs. Good fun, and good pro. Maybe a touch easier then the 1st pitch. We were able to walk off right easily. This route's a great consolation prize if things prove too nasty for a full day. Jan 16, 2011
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Good job, guys!
I never heard of anyone climbing this route over the last 7 years. If that's true, it still awaits its 2nd full ascent.
On the FA, I took a nice whipper off the traverse while attempting to turn the roof. Yanked a blue TCU and a KB before coming to rest upside down about 25' down but safe. B-Rad then took over and completed the crux.
As you can see, you got WAY MORE ice than we did. Lucky you! Apr 2, 2008
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Emailed to me by: Jim Detterline 4-1-08 "According to my notes, I climbed 90' on this route. I only brought a handful of pitons in addition to my ice rack, as I was not expecting to push the route beyond the ice. I felt that the ice climbed was WI 4, as it entailed two vertical sections, one of which was a bit unstable. I ended on a ledge below the big overhang, and placed a two piton rappel anchor. I was belayed by Matt Wilber." Apr 2, 2008

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