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NE Buttress Hallett Peak - mixed/ice Climbing
Routes in NE Buttress Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
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Analysis Paralysis T M6 |
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Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13 |
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Bullett T WI3+ M6 |
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Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R |
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Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4 |
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Englishman's Route M5-6 |
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Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M4-5 |
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Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow |
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Hallett Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Krishna Cutoff T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b M1 Steep Snow PG13 |
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Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13 |
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North Face Direct M2-3 Steep Snow |
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Ricochet T M5-6 PG13 |
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Slit, The T M5-6 |
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Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow |
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| Elevation: | 10,905 ft |
| GPS: |
40.30751, -105.674 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 44,862 total · 224/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Oct 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This organizational entry for the Tyndall Gorge was split up to provide room for the East Buttress to assist with clarity in the database based up a suggestion by a MP.com user.
Hallett Peak is probably better known as a moderate, close-in, backcountry, alpine crag. Once, it had the aura of a difficult Norwand. During the colder months (most of the year), certain freeze-thaw cycles can align to create a variety of interesting mixed lines here. Probably the most famous is Hallett Chimney. This was listed in G. Randall's 1983 Vertigo Games with a wonderful shot of Dick Jackson on the FA of the route. Since, it has become an almost Grail-like goal for the mixed-Colorado-aficienado. Subsequently, others have quietly sought devious, mixed adventures on this playground.
Within the database:
L=>R:
A. Left of Cleft, 8 M4, 4p, 900'.
B. The Cleft, 5.8 M4, 5p, 600'.
C. Booby Trap, 8+ M4-5 PG-13, 3p, 800'.
D. Hallett Couloir, moderate snow, 800'.
E. Ricochet, M5-6 PG-13,, 2p, 120'.
F. Ms. Inferno, 10+ V3 M7 PG-13, 2p, 200'.
G1. Dodging the Bullet, WI4 M4, 130'.
G2. Bullett, WI3+ M6+, 1p, 130'.
H Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress, M4-5, 5p, 1000'.
I. Hallett Chimney, M5+, 4-6p, 900'.
J. Englishman's Route, M5-6, 6p, 900'.
K. The Slit, M5-6, 5p, 900'.
L. Analysis Paralysis, M6, 5p, 900'.
M. North Face Direct, M2-3, 900'.
N. Tyndall Gully, moderate snow, 800'.
Within this subarea, you will only find the ice/mixed/snow routes.
Hallett Peak is probably better known as a moderate, close-in, backcountry, alpine crag. Once, it had the aura of a difficult Norwand. During the colder months (most of the year), certain freeze-thaw cycles can align to create a variety of interesting mixed lines here. Probably the most famous is Hallett Chimney. This was listed in G. Randall's 1983 Vertigo Games with a wonderful shot of Dick Jackson on the FA of the route. Since, it has become an almost Grail-like goal for the mixed-Colorado-aficienado. Subsequently, others have quietly sought devious, mixed adventures on this playground.
Within the database:
L=>R:
A. Left of Cleft, 8 M4, 4p, 900'.
B. The Cleft, 5.8 M4, 5p, 600'.
C. Booby Trap, 8+ M4-5 PG-13, 3p, 800'.
D. Hallett Couloir, moderate snow, 800'.
E. Ricochet, M5-6 PG-13,, 2p, 120'.
F. Ms. Inferno, 10+ V3 M7 PG-13, 2p, 200'.
G1. Dodging the Bullet, WI4 M4, 130'.
G2. Bullett, WI3+ M6+, 1p, 130'.
H Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress, M4-5, 5p, 1000'.
I. Hallett Chimney, M5+, 4-6p, 900'.
J. Englishman's Route, M5-6, 6p, 900'.
K. The Slit, M5-6, 5p, 900'.
L. Analysis Paralysis, M6, 5p, 900'.
M. North Face Direct, M2-3, 900'.
N. Tyndall Gully, moderate snow, 800'.
Within this subarea, you will only find the ice/mixed/snow routes.
Getting There
Once on the eastern side of RMNP, drive to the end of the Bear Lake Rd. Occasionally, this road will be closed due to snow clearing efforts. Hike 1.8 miles to Emerald Lake. Skirt the lake on the S/left side towards the obvious large rock buttress (900' tall). Note, there is a buried talus field here under all the snow. Hike up to the base. Expect at least a 75 minute approach. You'll gain probably 1500'.
Classic Climbing Routes at NE Buttress Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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