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Elevation: 8,523 ft 2,598 m
GPS: 40.3753, -105.61599
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Shared By: Chris Zeller on Mar 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Regulations DetailsDrop down

Ice Climbing Suggest change

Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) contains some of the most spectacular, long and hard ice routes in an alpine setting. Most of these climbs involve a renaissance mixture of mountaineering skills including long approaches, snow, rock, and ice climbing complicated by difficult protection, harsh weather, objective hazards and altitude. This is the perfect playground to experience the type of remote, committing climbing that only comes from this kind of wilderness, or to practice the methods required for tackling big mountains in other parts of the world. There are however, several smaller, less expedition style, sport areas in the park where short, technical climbs can be done. In short, RMNP has something for everyone, and itÂ’s practically in our own backyard.

Getting There Suggest change

From Denver, head North on I-25 to US 36, through Boulder to Lyons. In Lyons, turn left and follow US 36 to the end of town. To get to the Glacier Gorge/Moriane Park Area, continue to follow US 36 to the right into the town of Estes Park. From Estes Park, follow US 36 into the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station. To get to the Longs Peak or Wild Basin area, from the W end of Lyons, turn left on Colorado 7, continue this N once you hit the Peak-to-Peak Highway. The trailheads are well marked off of Colo 7.

Bypassing the lines

Suggest change
FWIW, if you are trying to enter during entrance fee collecting times, you can use the right lane at the Beaver Meadows entrance with the card activated gate bypassing the lines with a Rocky Mountain National Park annual pass OR a National Parks annual pass purchase at RMNP!

227 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: RMNP - Mixed/Ice Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at RMNP - Mixed/Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4- R
 127
All Mixed Up
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI5- M5
 45
Mixed Emotions
Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice
WI5 M6 R
 13
Smear of Fear
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M5 R
 13
Deep Freeze
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI4
 45
Jaws Falls
Trad, Ice
WI1 M1 Mod. Snow
 117
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI4 M4
 89
Alexander's Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M6-7
 16
The Squid
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow
 30
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
M5+ Steep Snow
 23
Brain Freeze
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches
M5-
 27
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M2
 183
Dreamweaver
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M3 Mod. Snow
 102
The Notch Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Easy Snow
 207
Kiener's Route
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow
 44
North Face (which actually faces…
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Mixed Up Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)
 127
WI4- R Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Mixed Emotions Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale Gorge
 45
WI5- M5 Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice
Smear of Fear Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 13
WI5 M6 R Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Deep Freeze Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale & uphill
 13
WI5-6 M5 R Trad, Mixed, Ice
Jaws Falls Moraine Park/Fern Lak…
 45
WI4 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Bear Lake Trail… > Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 117
WI1 M1 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Alexander's Chimney Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 89
WI4 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
The Squid Bear Lake Trail… > Emerald Lake /… > Emerald Lake & vicinity
 16
WI5-6 M6-7 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Bear Lake Trail… > … > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 30
WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Brain Freeze Glacier Gorge T… > Andrews Creek & The Gash
 23
M5+ Steep Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches
Great Dihedral to Upper But… Bear Lake Trail… > … > Hallett Peak -… > NE Buttress Hallett P…
 27
M5- Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Dreamweaver Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 183
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
The Notch Couloir Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 102
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2-3 M3 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Kiener's Route Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 207
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Easy Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine
North Face (which actually… Bear Lake Trail… > Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in RMNP - Mixed/Ice »

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