Elevation: 8,523 ft
GPS: 40.3753, -105.61599
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 834,619 total · 3,281/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Mar 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Regulations Details

Ice Climbing

Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) contains some of the most spectacular, long and hard ice routes in an alpine setting. Most of these climbs involve a renaissance mixture of mountaineering skills including long approaches, snow, rock, and ice climbing complicated by difficult protection, harsh weather, objective hazards and altitude. This is the perfect playground to experience the type of remote, committing climbing that only comes from this kind of wilderness, or to practice the methods required for tackling big mountains in other parts of the world. There are however, several smaller, less expedition style, sport areas in the park where short, technical climbs can be done. In short, RMNP has something for everyone, and itÂ’s practically in our own backyard.

Getting There

From Denver, head North on I-25 to US 36, through Boulder to Lyons. In Lyons, turn left and follow US 36 to the end of town. To get to the Glacier Gorge/Moriane Park Area, continue to follow US 36 to the right into the town of Estes Park. From Estes Park, follow US 36 into the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station. To get to the Longs Peak or Wild Basin area, from the W end of Lyons, turn left on Colorado 7, continue this N once you hit the Peak-to-Peak Highway. The trailheads are well marked off of Colo 7.

Bypassing the lines

FWIW, if you are trying to enter during entrance fee collecting times, you can use the right lane at the Beaver Meadows entrance with the card activated gate bypassing the lines with a Rocky Mountain National Park annual pass OR a National Parks annual pass purchase at RMNP!

225 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: RMNP - Mixed/Ice Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at RMNP - Mixed/Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4- R
 121
All Mixed Up
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI4-
 139
Hidden Falls (main)
Trad, TR, Ice
WI5- M5
 42
Mixed Emotions (submitted as Mix…
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI3-4
 64
Black Lake - West Gully
Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4
 43
Jaws Falls
Trad, Ice
WI1 M1 Mod. Snow
 105
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI4 M4
 84
Alexander's Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Easy Snow
 58
Lamb's Slide
Trad, Snow, Alpine
WI4+
 56
Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal M…
Trad, Ice
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 Mod. Snow
 56
The Flying Dutchman
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
 175
Dreamweaver
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow
 92
The Notch Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
 196
Kiener's Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
 118
Martha
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow
 43
North Face (which actually faces…
Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Mixed Up Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)
 121
WI4- R Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Hidden Falls (main) Wild Basin > Hidden Falls
 139
WI4- Trad, TR, Ice
Mixed Emotions (submitted a… Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale Gorge
 42
WI5- M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice
Black Lake - West Gully Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > Glacier Creek Drainag…
 64
WI3-4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Jaws Falls Moraine Park/Fern Lak…
 43
WI4 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Bear Lake Trail… > Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 105
WI1 M1 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Alexander's Chimney Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 84
WI4 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Lamb's Slide Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 58
Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crys… Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale Gorge
 56
WI4+ Trad, Ice
The Flying Dutchman Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 56
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Dreamweaver Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 175
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Trad, Mixed, Alpine
The Notch Couloir Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 92
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Kiener's Route Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 196
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Martha Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 118
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
North Face (which actually… Bear Lake Trail… > Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Easy Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in RMNP - Mixed/Ice »

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