Elevation: 8,512 ft
GPS: 40.375, -105.616 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 561,416 total · 2,517/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Mar 15, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Ice Climbing

Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) contains some of the most spectacular, long and hard ice routes in an alpine setting. Most of these climbs involve a renaissance mixture of mountaineering skills including long approaches, snow, rock, and ice climbing complicated by difficult protection, harsh weather, objective hazards and altitude. This is the perfect playground to experience the type of remote, committing climbing that only comes from this kind of wilderness, or to practice the methods required for tackling big mountains in other parts of the world. There are however, several smaller, less expedition style, sport areas in the park where short, technical climbs can be done. In short, RMNP has something for everyone, and itÂ’s practically in our own backyard.

Getting There

From Denver, head North on I-25 to US 36, through Boulder to Lyons. In Lyons, turn left and follow US 36 to the end of town. To get to the Glacier Gorge/Moriane Park Area, continue to follow US 36 to the right into the town of Estes Park. From Estes Park, follow US 36 into the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station. To get to the Longs Peak or Wild Basin area, from the W end of Lyons, turn left on Colorado 7, continue this N once you hit the Peak-to-Peak Highway. The trailheads are well marked off of Colo 7.

Bypassing the lines

FWIW, if you are trying to enter during entrance fee collecting times, you can use the right lane at the Beaver Meadows entrance with the card activated gate bypassing the lines with a Rocky Mountain National Park annual pass OR a National Parks annual pass purchase at RMNP!

217 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: RMNP - Mixed/Ice Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at RMNP - Mixed/Ice

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4- R
 111
All Mixed Up
Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
WI3-4
 116
Hidden Falls (main)
Trad, TR, Ice
WI5- M5
 41
Mixed Feelings
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI3-4
 51
Black Lake - West Gully
Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI4
 32
Jaws Falls
Trad, Ice
WI2- M1 Mod. Snow
 85
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
WI4 M4
 76
Alexander's Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI4+
 55
Crystal Meth
Trad, Ice
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3
 49
The Flying Dutchman
Trad, Ice, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
 158
Dreamweaver
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
 71
The Notch Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
 162
Kiener's Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
 45
North Face / Cables Route
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
 104
Martha
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
 40
North Face (which actually faces…
Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
All Mixed Up Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)
 111
WI4- R Trad, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Hidden Falls (main) Wild Basin > Hidden Falls
 116
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Mixed Feelings Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale Gorge
 41
WI5- M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice
Black Lake - West Gully Glacier Gorge T… > Glacier Gorge > Glacier Creek Drainag…
 51
WI3-4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Jaws Falls Moraine Park/Fern Lak…
 32
WI4 Trad, Ice
Dragon's Tail Couloir Bear Lake Trail… > Emerald Lake /… > Flattop Mtn - S side
 85
WI2- M1 Mod. Snow Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine
Alexander's Chimney Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 76
WI4 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Crystal Meth Glacier Gorge T… > Loch Vale Gorge
 55
WI4+ Trad, Ice
The Flying Dutchman Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 49
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 Trad, Ice, Alpine
Dreamweaver Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 158
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Trad, Mixed, Alpine
The Notch Couloir Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 71
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Kiener's Route Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 162
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
North Face / Cables Route Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 45
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Martha Long's Peak/Mt Meeker…
 104
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
North Face (which actually… Bear Lake Trail… > Odessa Gorge > Notchtop & vicinity
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 Trad, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in RMNP - Mixed/Ice »

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