Elevation: 10,659 ft
GPS: 40.29, -105.671 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,631 total · 96/month
Shared By: Kurt Johnson on Oct 31, 2006 with improvements by James Kersey
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This covers the area surrounding the upper Andrews Creek drainage and The Gash, starting roughly from just beyond the Cathedral Wall to the south and Zowie to the north, all the way west to Andrews Glacier and the basin that makes up The Gash to the south. While there isn't much (if any) ice here, this area is chockful of couloirs, at least 10 alone on the south face of Otis that I've never heard anything about and several more in the Gash.

L->R:

Andrews' Tower

Andrews' Tower, North Face, III 3 M5, 5p, 800'.

Sharkstooth

Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth, snow, 3p.

Forbidden Tower

Ol' Dawg Chimney, M5, 4p, 700'.

Chiropractic Couloir, snow, 8p.

Andrews Glacier

Andrews Glacier, snow, 5p, 1000'.

Otis Peak

Flour Power Couloir, WI2- steep snow, 1000'.

Adaptive Methods, III 9 WI4 M4, 4p, 800'.
The Production, IV M7 PG-13, 5p, 800'.
Brain Freeze, IV M5+, 8p, 1000'.

Zowie/Wham area

Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.), III M6-7, 4p, 800'.
Wham Couloir , M4, 3p, 400'.

Getting There

Head up the trail to The Loch, and about a half mile beyond you'll cross a small log bridge over a creek (Andrews Creek) immediately after which you'll see a sign for Andrews Glacier. This trail doesn't see much traffic during the snowy months, so often times it's difficult to follow (it doesn't get packed down much either, so you usually end up post-holing), but if all else fails, follow the creek. Eventually it curves around to the left and suddenly opens up to reveal the spectacular south face of Otis (including Zowie) and way off to the west, Andrews Glacier. You can't see much of The Gash from here, but it's the basin just left (south) of Andrews Glacier with the dramatic spire of Sharkstooth at its end.

12 Total Climbs

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Location: Andrews Creek & The Gash Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Andrews Creek & The Gash

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
M5+ Steep Snow
 17
Brain Freeze
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches
M5 Steep Snow PG13
 3
Ol' Dawg Chimney
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
M4 Easy Snow
 6
Wham Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
WI2- Steep Snow
 6
Flour Power Couloir
Ice, Snow, Alpine
M6-7 Mod. Snow
 4
Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O…
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brain Freeze
 17
M5+ Steep Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine 8 pitches
Ol' Dawg Chimney
 3
M5 Steep Snow PG13 Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Wham Couloir
 6
M4 Easy Snow Trad, Mixed, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Flour Power Couloir
 6
WI2- Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Chockstones of Unusual Size…
 4
M6-7 Mod. Snow Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Andrews Creek & The Gash »

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