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Routes in Andrews Creek & The Gash

Adaptive Methods T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI4 M4 Easy Snow
Andrews Glacier Easy Snow
Andrews' Tower, North Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a M5 Steep Snow PG13
Brain Freeze M5+ Steep Snow
Chiropractic Couloir Mod. Snow
Chockstones of Unusual Size (C.O.U.S.) M6-7 Mod. Snow
Circling Sharks T M8+
Flour Power Couloir WI2- Steep Snow
Northwest Gully of Sharkstooth Steep Snow
Ol' Dawg Chimney T M5 Steep Snow PG13
Production, The T M7 PG13
Wham Couloir T M4 Easy Snow
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Aaron Montgomery and Ryan Vachon
Page Views: 1,195 total · 19/month
Shared By: Aaron M on May 16, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

P1: This is a M6ish pitch that starts on frozen turf and then climbs a shallow corner until you move out a small roof and traverse right for 30 feet or so (50m).

P2: This is a M8ish pitch where you start moving up and right through a very large roof system and around a corner to a nice belay cave (30m).

P3: This is a M8ish pitch. Continue through the last chimney and roof on very licheniny rock (20m).

The climbing on the last two pitches is very physical with lots of tool torqueing and liebacking, and because of that, we really didn't know how to grade it. We would super love to have another group do it to get some perspective.

Location [Suggest Change]

The line has three pitches and is Southwest-facing on an outcropping of rock on your way to the back side of the Sharkstooth. You would pass the buttress and look back to see it as you start to approach the talus on the way up. It is probably only 200 yards from the center of the valley though.

Protection [Suggest Change]

The gear on the first pitch is "just ok", but the gear on the 2nd and 3rd pitch is all pretty good. You will need several #2s, #3s, and #4s to protect the last two pitches well, though.
RWV
 
RWV  
 
Very straightforward lines. Pretty darn good quality rock. TONS of lichen on pitches 2 and 3 (spicy). May 16, 2013

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