Box of Candy Couloir

The Box of Candy Couloir is a fun, alpine, low-angle, mixed all-day adventure. Best in the fall or early winter, you can find some continuous pitches of sold low-angle ice no steeper than WI2 terrain. The ice gets thinner as you climb higher. There were spots a 21cm screw could comfortably be placed on the lower sections with a good eye for quality ice in October, but definitely bring some shorter screws and rock protection for the upper portions if you choose to protect it. This route is very weather-dependent and can be a whole mix of conditions and quality. Be careful about loose rock and dinner-plating ice, and set up belays in protected areas if at all possible. On warmer days, melting snow can send small rocks rolling down this couloir, so it's best climbed after a solid couple of cold nights to solidify things if you're looking for ice in the fall.

After about two or three pitches, veer left at the split in the couloir to find the narrower and steeper portion of the ice and snow. The average angle of the climb is roughly 45 degrees with the steepest pitch being around the 60 degree mark. The upper portion where the ice turns to rock is the crux mostly for the objective hazard of thin ice and loose rock at your feet. Small screws and rock pro can be placed here. The sides of the couloir offer plentiful rock pro opportunities. Just be careful not to kick anything down at your belayer.

After getting to the rock, climb the lower angle 4th-5th Class terrain for another pitch or two. Start moving to the climber's right here to top out in a beautiful alpine meadow overlooking the surrounding area.

Hike towards and descend Andrews Glacier and back to the main trail to head back. There are plenty of other variations and couloirs in this area to play on. This is one of the better ones as it's north-facing and protected from the sun for the most part. Overall, this is a fun alpine romp in a beautiful location with no crowds.

Start at the Glacier Gorge Trailhead, and hike towards Andrew's Glacier. Once at the Andrew's Tarn (body of water) near the foot of the glacier, hike up the glacier for about 1,000 feet while trending towards the climber's left. The couloir is tucked into the rock face on the climber's left, and the start of the route meets the small crevasses towards the bottom of Andrew's Glacier. Take caution hiking/climbing around these crevasses as some of them can be quite deep. You'll be at the start of the route when you see the snow/ice/rock ramp doing up in the southern direction.

Ice screws and a light alpine single rack.