Loch Vale & uphill Climbing
|GPS:||40.295, -105.658 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
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DescriptionThis is a prominent, lower-altitude peak in the Glacier Gorge/Loch Vale vicinity. Given that the routes on this peak are distinct from the lower routes in character and length, we'll create a separate area for this to include the multi-pitch ice/mixed routes for clarity.
All Mixed Up & its neighbors are approached from the left or Mills Lake or southeast side of Thatchtop and are left in the Glacier Gorge area. The Loch Vale Gorge routes near Mixed Feelings are separate and left in the Loch Vale Gorge section. Northwest Face, Deep Freeze, Necrophilia, Vanquished, Womb With a View, The Crypt & their neighbors are approached from the right or Loch Vale or the NW side of Thatchtop. These last routes shall be listed here.
Depending on the snowpack, you may be able to approach these with or without flotation devices.
We could split this into Thatchtop - N side, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Loch Vale, & Cathedral Wall...perhaps.
Sex With A Live Person, 5 M4, 1p, 200',
Northwest Face, WI3+, 3p, 600'.
Leftist Activity, WI5 M7, 1p, 100'.
Deep Freeze, WI6 M5 R.
Dry Ice, WI5 M9, 1p.
Necrophilia, WI5 M6, 1-2p, 200'.
Upper Wall, WI5 M5 X, 5p.
Broken Axes, WI5 M5
Double Tap, WI3 M5, 3p, 400'.
Plan D, M5, 2p, 350'.
Dirty Peeps Variation, M6 PG-13, 2p.
The Inquisition, IV M6, 4p, 550'.
Vanquished, M6 WI5+, 5p.
North Face Icefield, steep snow/alpine ice, 1000'.
Northwest Buttress of Powell, M6, 4p, 600'.
North Gully, M4, 3p, 1000'.
Taylor Glacier, steep snow, 1200'.
Taylor Glacier Buttress
Quicksilver, III M3+ steep snow, 1000'.
Unnamed Route, M5? WI5?
Central Buttress, III 5.8 M5 WI5, 11p, 1200'.
East Face Right
Far Right Gully
Alaskarado, III M5, 4p, 800'.
The Petit Gully, III M5, 6p, 800'.
Prise de Fer, IV 5.7 M5+, 6p, 800'.
Dog House, III M5+, 5p, 600'.
Womb With A View, M6 WI5, 5p, 800'.
Tunnel Vision, M4+ WI4+ to M6, 5p, 800'.
Sublime Vision IV M7-8, 6p, 800'.
Below Cathedral Wall:
Timberline Falls, WI3, 2p, 100'.
Out right up the Andrews Creek Drainage
Click here for that subarea.
Freezer Burn, WI4, 1p, 60'.
Cold Storage, WI4, 1p, 40'.
The Crypt, WI4, 1p, 100'.
Getting ThereGo to the Beaver Meadows entrance to RMNP at the W end of US 36. Go through the entrance. Shortly after the entrance, you turn L on to the Bear Lake Rd. Go to the Glacier Gorge parking area (about 1mi shy of Bear Lake). Park. Hike about 3mi in to the ice taking the climber shortcut up the L side of the drainage after the 2nd bridge. Get to the junction of the trail to Mills Lake (L) & Loch Vale (R). Pick your side. Continue to hike.
Link to Cathedral Wall rock
Classic Climbing Routes at Loch Vale & uphill
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season