Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 42,741 total · 155/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Start up Lamb's Slide until beneath obvious chimney, which starts up above you. Broken rock leads to start of ice, near start of chimney, belay here. A long pitch of mostly ice leads to a fixed belay on the left. Way fun with a steep section or two. Next pitch is easy, set a belay under giant chockstone. Ice and mixed (M4) terrain leads under chockstone and up more ice above, another fun pitch. Three options to lead to Broadway according to guidebook. Going right is listed as easiest, but loose. We rapped from the end of the ice. Great setting, great views and fun climbing. Hard persons would undoubtably continue up, perhaps linking to summit route. Note: Beware rockfall in Lamb's Slide.

Protection Suggest change

2 ropes if rapping. Light rock rack to 3.5 Friend, ice screws including short. Pins not needed on my ascent.

Descent Suggest change

You can traverse off to Lamb's Slide (left) if you reach Broadway.

There are many rappel options. 1) You can rap from up & L of the route on Broadway. It's 200' to 5). 2) There is a rappel station 40' below Broadway off & R of the chimney itself (may be buried in ice/snow). 3) In the chimney, there is a rap station about 40' below Broadway (slightly L). Note, this is 215' from 6). 4) There is another rap station about 30' above the chockstone (slightly L). 5) There is a less-than-inspiring rap station just below the chockstone (1 ring). 6) There a rap station on the R (slings, I-pin, 2 wires) 200' off Lamb's Slide. 7) There is another rap station about 140' above Lamb's Slide.

Photos

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