Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 33,034 total · 157/month
Shared By: Mark Hammond on Oct 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Start up Lamb's Slide until beneath obvious chimney, which starts up above you. Broken rock leads to start of ice, near start of chimney, belay here. A long pitch of mostly ice leads to a fixed belay on the left. Way fun with a steep section or two. Next pitch is easy, set a belay under giant chockstone. Ice and mixed (M4) terrain leads under chockstone and up more ice above, another fun pitch. Three options to lead to Broadway according to guidebook. Going right is listed as easiest, but loose. We rapped from the end of the ice. Great setting, great views and fun climbing. Hard persons would undoubtably continue up, perhaps linking to summit route. Note: Beware rockfall in Lamb's Slide.


2 ropes if rapping. Light rock rack to 3.5 Friend, ice screws including short. Pins not needed on my ascent.


You can traverse off to Lamb's Slide (left) if you reach Broadway.

There are many rappel options. 1) You can rap from up & L of the route on Broadway. It's 200' to 5). 2) There is a rappel station 40' below Broadway off & R of the chimney itself (may be buried in ice/snow). 3) In the chimney, there is a rap station about 40' below Broadway (slightly L). Note, this is 215' from 6). 4) There is another rap station about 30' above the chockstone (slightly L). 5) There is a less-than-inspiring rap station just below the chockstone (1 ring). 6) There a rap station on the R (slings, I-pin, 2 wires) 200' off Lamb's Slide. 7) There is another rap station about 140' above Lamb's Slide.


There is a huge death block on the traverse right above the ice. Be careful. Make sure your belayer is not below it. It's been yarded on probably for years. Also, you can go straight up instead of the traverse right. It's hard. Oct 19, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Getting to Broadway at the top of this route is not obvious, I think we went right past the death block. It was a memorable pitch, I was leading this as the sun was setting with a full pack of bivy gear. Grab loose block, notice loose block., try to avoid grabbing loose block, almost made it, fall 20'. It's dark, climb back up, grab loose block, loose block shifts, crampons scratching for purchase, make it to Broadway! We then endured a horrible snowy bivy on Broadway, didn't sleep a wink, but got an incredible view of comet Hale-Bopp as the sky cleared just before sunrise.

Sorry for the rambling, this is an excellent winter route! Threading behind the chockstone is wild! Oct 30, 2002
Did Alexander's one year ago yesterday (10/30/02)...Great route! Definitely beware of the "death block" on the right traverse to Broadway. Yes, it has probably been tugged at for years, but it IS loose, BIG, and scary. The rest of the route is excellent, although pitch 1 was very thin when we did it. Oct 31, 2002
[Alexander's] was still in as of last [Friday] but appeared to be thinner than a month ago. Went up the first 2 pitches and decided to bail rather than swim through snow to get under the block after the second pitch. By the time we walked out most of the snow above treeline had blown away so walking was easier. Smear was still in and fat, but has not grown since Oct. Nov 18, 2002
Climbed Alexander's Chimney on 12-08-02. Had the entire route to ourselves. Ice is getting thin but still an enjoyable climb. Stubbies help, no pins were needed. Snow on Lamb's Slide was consolidated or had sections of loose powder. Wind slab conditions may exist in spots. First couple of pitches on the Smear look thin and desperate. Dec 9, 2002
Did this on Saturday. Definitely not fat right now. Expect much more snowy rock than ice. Still good though. Oct 6, 2003
Climbed on 1/22/2005, a perfect day, one party in front of us using good style was the only other party we encountered. Ice is still in good condition, though a couple of thin sections on the first pitch (initial slabs), the third pitch (heading out above chockstone) and getting to the final rap anchor above. There was no ice on the Direct Finish, so we finished in two more pitches around right by traversing across questionable ice to a difficult maneuver onto a rock ledge with crappy pro, which Christa led. The final pitch went further right, then straight up snow to more rock and a traverse left along a snow ramp to the top rap anchor. We brought double 60m ropes and did three raps back to the Lamb's Slide. Great climb! Pro: 8 screws, a few stoppers and cams from blue Alien to #2 Camalot. Oh, and don't forget to get off trail in the dark and post-hole in waist-deep snow for two hours along Larkspur Creek to find the trail again. Jan 23, 2005
I climbed Alexander's in late November, my 3rd or 4th time on it. It was in the thinnest shape I have seen. A small runnel of ice on the first pitch, and practically no ice getting around the chockstone, no climbable ice after that as well. I would presume that it has not grown since then. Maybe next year.... Dec 19, 2005
Kick ass day. Alexander's is still in. The ice is a bit detached in places, and the crux was thin (I think, haven't done it before) compared to other pictures. Oct 15, 2006
the Mountains
Stiles   the Mountains
This route constituted the single best day of climbing I've ever had. Aug 7, 2007
Kurt Ross  
As of yesterday, Alexander's is in and beautiful.

It was very thin above the chockstone, so we had to rap from there. Can't wait to go back and finish to Broadway and maybe another route to summit.

Double ropes would be very nice, but it can be rapped with a single. We had a 60m and did a little down-climbing on the second pitch. It was 5 raps for us. A 70m would have been fantastic (might still be a little bit of snow down-climbing to get to the top of the first pitch). Nov 5, 2011
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
Climbed this route yesterday 4-12.

There were significant portions of ice on every pitch except the 4th.
Every pitch was excellent climbing as well.

We took the left version of the 4th pitch to Broadway, it was a rope stretcher past two fixed pins and some very thought-provoking mixed, felt to be about M5.

I also dropped a pink Fujitsu Fine Pic point and shoot camera by Chasm Lake. On the off chance that some finds it, my girlfriend would love to have it back. Apr 13, 2012
Christian Mason
Westminster CO
Christian Mason   Westminster CO
Did the direct 4th pitch finish. Good gear and interesting, awkward climbing. Felt like sustained M5+ I'd recommend this finish over the left variant.

I've never done the right finish. May 5, 2012
Captain America
Longmont, CO
Captain America   Longmont, CO
Climbed 4th pitch with Chris 5-4-12. I agree with Chris's comments. All dry tooling and a calf burner. Steep finish to Broadway ledge. Bring extra gear to sew it up, you'll be glad you did.
May 9, 2012
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  WI4 M4
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  WI4 M4
Fun stuff!

youtube.com/watch?v=E7s3fOJ… Dec 15, 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
LawHous   Colorado Springs, CO
Anybody know what conditions are like on this route in mid-May? Apr 29, 2013
No ice as of 3/29/14 and 60mph winds with gust of 80+ or enough to throw a 200lb man a good 10 yards.
Mar 30, 2014
Trevor Bianchi
  WI3+ M4
Trevor Bianchi  
  WI3+ M4
Oct. 24, 2014. Solid conditions, fun vertical ice on the first pitch. Cruiser second pitch, snow and ice. Mixed crux definitely the highlight, couple of moves exiting chockstone chimney, and thin smears above in the corner. Fixed belays all the way, and I added another loop of 6mm cord at the top. 4 screws, light rock rack, handful of slings. Oct 27, 2014
On. Feb 21, we climbed some of the route, including the crux, and the crux chockstone pitch was completely dry, and we found it challenging. Feb 22, 2016
Falmouth (MA)
proto   Falmouth (MA)
With a 70m rope, one can go from the base to Broadway in 3 pitches (combining pitch 2 and 3). Nov 23, 2018