Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II
FA: Walter Kiener, 1924
Page Views: 79,269 total · 346/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


158 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Like the Cable Route, this route is also not on the Diamond. However, of all the routes I have done on Long's, I get the most requests for beta on this one. It is very fun and popular.

Kiener's Route, also known as the Mountaineer's Route, is on the East Face of Long's and climbs parallel to the Diamond on the left. To get to the route start hiking at the Long's Peak trailhead, and hike until you reach the cutoff for Chasm Lake. Hike to Chasm Lake, and contour around it to the right in the summer, or walk right over it in the winter. On the other side of the lake is Mill's Glacier and the bottom of the Lamb's Slide. The whole 2500 foot East Face is towering above you at this point, it's quite intimidating.

The Lamb's Slide is a 1000 foot snow/ice coulior that starts on the Mill's Glacier and cuts south under the Diagonal Wall. When you're at the bottom of it, it's fairly obvious. Strap on your crampons and climb this couloir at an angle of about 50 degrees for about 1000 feet. The conditions can vary from corn snow to powder to hard, dry ice. To be absolutely sure, it is a good idea to rope up and place a screw or two every ropelength. To save time, I would suggest simul-climbing.

Eventually on the right you come to a large ledge that is covered in loose rocks and scree and dirt. This is Broadway. Traverse Broadway for about 1000 feet. The most dangerous part of the climb is here when you must walk across a ledge and step around some blocks. The ledge is less than a foot wide here and a slip would have you plummeting all the way over the Diagonal Wall. There are one or two moves of 4th class. Most people are roped up here for safety sake, and there are a couple of fixed pins and horns that can easily be slung.

After this airy catwalk, you will come to the Notch Couloir. Depending on the season, this couloir can be a very dangerous avalanche hazard. Traverse the bottom of the couloir to ledges on the other side. There are many different ways to go from here and the easiest way is not obvious. Climb up dihedrals for about two pitches. The difficulty can vary from 4th class to 5.4, depending on where you go. Take a set of nuts and be roped up just in case you get yourself into a hairy position.

Above this is 3rd class scrambling up and left, staying generally along the edge of the Diamond. At the very top is a chimney that must be climbed. Here there are also a couple of options, so look for the easiest one. The climbing is about as difficult as down below, maybe 4th class to 5.4. After climbing the chimney for a pitch, you have a very short scramble up to the summit.

This route is good in both the summer and winter but may be a bit more classic in the winter. It will feel like you are climbing a peak much bigger than Long's. This also makes the Broadway traverse more interesting because of snow. I would recommend taking a picket or two in the winter. So, have fun climbing one of the most classic mountaineering routes in the Park!

Protection

Depends on the season and your comfort level on this kind of route. There are sections that are VERY exposed, but luckily these are protected with fixed pins and slung horns. Depending on the season, some people may feel more comfortable with screws for Lamb's Slide. I guess I would recommend bringing 3 ice screws, 1 set of nuts, 2-3 slings and 3-5 quickdraws to be well protected in any season.

Photos