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Areas in Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge

Emerald Canyon 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Emerald Lake & vicinity 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 9 / 9 / 9
Flattop Mountain - S side 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 8 / 8 / 8
Hallett Peak - mixed/ice 9 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 13 / 15 / 15
Nymph Lake 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 7 / 8 / 8

Description

Tyndall Gorge is comprised of the alpine rock routes on Hallett Peak, rock and alpine routes on the south face of Flattop Mountain (The Dragon's Tail), and Emerald Lake bouldering. Easy access from Bear Lake increases its popularity (let's play Dodge the Tourist!), not to mention some stellar routes. The area has something for everyone - easy alpine cruises, long trad routes, hard ice climbing, and boulders.

[Eds. for this section, it seems reasonable to split this into Bear Lake & vicinity, Nymph Lake & vicinity 0.5mi, Emerald Lake & vicinity 1.8mi, Flattop Mt 2.5mi, and Hallett Peak, 2.5mi. You're unlikely to need GPS in this area.]

Getting There

From the Bear Lake Trailhead, follow signs to Dream Lake and Emerald Lake. A 45 minute hike up the canyon on good trails gets you to the upper-most lake - Emerald Lake. The alpine routes and rock climbs on Flattop Mtn. are accesses by rock hopping around the north side of the lake. Hallet Peak is reached by traversing the slope above the south shore. Allow an hour to the base of Dragon's Tail Couloir (in the summer) and an hour and a half or more to the base of Hallett.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2 M2
Dragon's Tail Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
M2-
Dragon's Tooth
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
WI3+ M6+
Bullet
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
WI5-6 M6-7
The Squid
Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
M5+
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5
Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Tyndall Gully
Alpine
M4-5
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress
Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
M5-6
The Slit
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
M5-6
Englishman's Route
Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
M7
Two Dragons
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
M5-6
Steep Is Flat
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
East Ridge
Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2+ M1
Southeast Face
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4
Butterfingers
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
Dragon's Tail Couloir Flattop Mtn - S side WI2 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
Dragon's Tooth Flattop Mtn - S side M2- Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Bullet Hallett Peak - mixed/ice WI3+ M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine
The Squid Emerald Lake & vicinity WI5-6 M6-7 Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M5+ Trad, Mixed, Alpine
Tyndall Gully Hallett Peak - mixed/ice Alpine
Great Dihedral to Upper But… Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M4-5 Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
The Slit Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M5-6 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Englishman's Route Hallett Peak - mixed/ice M5-6 Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Two Dragons Flattop Mtn - S side M7 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 3 pitches
Steep Is Flat Flattop Mtn - S side M5-6 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
East Ridge Hallett Peak - mixed/ice 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Alpine
Southeast Face Flattop Mtn - S side 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI2+ M1 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 2 pitches
Enter The Dragon (aka Old R… Flattop Mtn - S side 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 6 pitches
Butterfingers Emerald Lake & vicinity 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge »

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Photos

Ben
Ben  
My buddy Matt and I climbed a couloir next to the Tyndall Glacier last weekend. It was fantastic neve for about 800'+. We don't know if it has a name, though. Anyone have any idea about that or is it considered a branch of the glacier? High winds on top of the divide, 50-60 mph. The glacier has a lot of exposed grey ice. The only new snow was a light dusting that fell while we were there. Nov 3, 2003
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Hallett, "Bullet" is awaiting a second ascent. WI-3, M-6 this route went up a couple winters ago by me and Brad Grohusky. It is easily found below and left of Hallet Chimney, in a small flow that exits the lower left buttress at the top of the snowfield. The ice peters out about 50' up. The following rock diheadral ends at a huge roof. exit to the left, thru the crux. Hike up onto the next ledge, and find a fixed pin on the next wall to make a 200' rappel to the ground. I will try to post the topo, too. Sep 29, 2003
Sunday (2/16/03) we (my two friends, Sean, Sara, and myself) headed up Odessa trail, cut off to ptarmagin glacier. Climbed up the south edge of ptarmagin glacier, crossed Flattop and came down Tyndall Glacier. 5:30AM to 3:30PM car to car. High winds on summit. Had crampons, but did not need them. Wind-packed snow in places made kick-stepping difficult, but not impossible. Alpine axes a must in my book. Harnessed up, but never got the rope out. Fairly safe route, good alpine day trip.

A wind packed layer of snow on the surface of tyndall glacier broke free... about 100 meters across, about 8 - 10 inches deep. Sean was below it, having just finished his glissade. He was just on the edge and was able to brace himself as I shouted a warning. Had he been in the middle He probably would have been swept off his feet, but doubtful he would have been burried. However, High winds coming across the divide continue to move snow onto the lee slope. Another slad broke free when we attempted another glissade towards emerald lake. Plunge stepping seems to be the better technique. Feb 18, 2003
Attempted Hallet's Chimney on Sunday. Found similar conditions as people in Dragon's Tail. Very deep snow, no ice. Apr 29, 2002

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