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> Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)
All Mixed Up
WI4- R
Avg: 3.3 from 93
votes
Routes in Thatchtop Mt (SE aspect)
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All Mixed Up T WI4- R |
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Full Recovery T,TR WI2-3 |
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Middle Finger of Dr. Wazz, The T WI5 |
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Mills' Lake Right Side T WI3-4 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 23,209 total · 108/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Zeller on Jan 5, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
This is one of the most famous ice routes in the park, an excellent moderate multi-pitch route in an alpine setting. The route follows the large, obvious flow directly above the bowl on NE face of Thatchtop, ascending four pitches of mostly thin water ice. Despite the name, under normal conditions there is actually very little mixed climbing involved although some mixed protection placements may be necessary if the ice is in thin condition. The flow is fairly wide with infinite route possibilities.
The main line follows the center of the flow with the most consistent ice.
P1. The first pitch ambles up low angle slabs that are often in thin condition and difficult to protect. Clip a fixed pin in a crack on the right to beef up your placements. Lead up to a ledge just below the steeper ice and belay from a mixture of nuts and screws depending upon conditions.
P2. The second pitch climbs several short, steep pillars (that may be hollow and chandeliered) interspersed with low angle sections. Lead up to a ledge, just before the route turns into a steep snow climb.
P3. Pitch three hikes up steep snow with little pro to the base of a 70-85 degree pillar. Get a few screws in the ice early, the climbing isn't hard here but the exposure is substantial. The snow slope steepens as it joins the pillar. Set a belay below the pillar if using screws or below the steepening snow in some cracks in the rock.
P4. From here, there are three options: ascend the main pillar, move right and climb a shorter, steeper pillar or escape left by following the wide ledge on talus or snow and join the descent route. The direct route up the pillar can be difficult to protect in thin conditions, but mostly it provides smooth, thick ice with the best protection on the climb. Follow the pillar up a couloir to a notch and move left to the decent route. If you follow the pillar on the right, ascend rock at the top of the route, then move left to join the top of the main pillar and the decent route.
Descent: Follow the shoulder of Thatchtop left over a ridge and descend a Class 2 talus slope on the opposite side. Pick your way down until you are just above the bowl. Pass through a notch in the ridge and follow a Couloir down to the bowl below the base of the climb.
The main line follows the center of the flow with the most consistent ice.
P1. The first pitch ambles up low angle slabs that are often in thin condition and difficult to protect. Clip a fixed pin in a crack on the right to beef up your placements. Lead up to a ledge just below the steeper ice and belay from a mixture of nuts and screws depending upon conditions.
P2. The second pitch climbs several short, steep pillars (that may be hollow and chandeliered) interspersed with low angle sections. Lead up to a ledge, just before the route turns into a steep snow climb.
P3. Pitch three hikes up steep snow with little pro to the base of a 70-85 degree pillar. Get a few screws in the ice early, the climbing isn't hard here but the exposure is substantial. The snow slope steepens as it joins the pillar. Set a belay below the pillar if using screws or below the steepening snow in some cracks in the rock.
P4. From here, there are three options: ascend the main pillar, move right and climb a shorter, steeper pillar or escape left by following the wide ledge on talus or snow and join the descent route. The direct route up the pillar can be difficult to protect in thin conditions, but mostly it provides smooth, thick ice with the best protection on the climb. Follow the pillar up a couloir to a notch and move left to the decent route. If you follow the pillar on the right, ascend rock at the top of the route, then move left to join the top of the main pillar and the decent route.
Descent: Follow the shoulder of Thatchtop left over a ridge and descend a Class 2 talus slope on the opposite side. Pick your way down until you are just above the bowl. Pass through a notch in the ridge and follow a Couloir down to the bowl below the base of the climb.
North Vancouver, BC
From the town of Estes, take Hwy 36 west towards the Beaver Meadows entry to RMNP. After the entry fee booth drive approx. 1/4 mi into RMNP, turn left onto Bear Lake Rd. (sign may point to Moraine Park). Continue for approx. 8.5 miles to the Glacier Gorge trailhead / parking lot. Hike the Glacier Gorge trail to Mills Lake where the route becomes visible to the SW. Careful when crossing the lake; the ice near the inlet and outlet can remain thin despite frigid temps. A rough trail, and I use the word loosely, leaves the SW quadrant of the lake. Feel the warmth as you ascend the steep, forested slope. Plod along, eventually arriving at the base.
Danger: assess the avalanche risk before launching. There's a slope above the last pitch that gets windloaded and regularly runs; climbers have been blasted when this thing sneezes. The final pitch, in particular, is a funnel (look at the photo!).
The last pitch is the attraction; 75 degrees and receptive to your stemming-ways. After topping-out on the last pitch, belay amongst the rocks up and right. Do not plop in the snow lest you find yourself riding a slide. Perhaps remain roped whilst traversing this as well.
Descent: While climbing, scope the descent gully off to climber's left (S), pointing back towards the base of the route. From the top of the last pitch, head south, crossing the av-prone slope. Eventually pick your way down the rocky terrain heading NE and into the gully you astutely identified prior to your ascent. If time permits, consider another pitch in the area, especially *The Middle Finger Of Dr. Wazz* (WI5 and exactly why the notoriety associated w/ Dr. Wazz's middle finger?), which appears as a curtain approximately 1/4 mile to the N of All Mixed Up. Nov 18, 2002
On the hike back we talked to a guide who'd been up at Black Lake. He said the Slabs and the West Gully were fat. Nov 18, 2002
It was very, very windy. Knock you over windy. Grab you partner as you get tossed, windy. Better have twp solid placement, windy.Scary windy.
Skied in and out from the lake.
Ice is in. Trail from lake to ice is in. Snow slopes seemed relatively stable. We bailed before the top due to fierce winds and daytime jobs.
Oh and did I mention the wind? Nov 19, 2002
Boulder, CO
You have to expect crowds on this route. Fortunately, as you mention, there are several lines at the bottom which can spread the traffic out. In this case it is downright rude to pass somewhat and continue up where you will shower the lower party with debris. At least they didn't fall on you. Dec 2, 2002
Climbed 12/7. 1-3' snow on approach from Mills upward, but the boulderfields are more clear nearer the route. First pitch is thick and long, better condition than the route photo shows. Second pitch is nasty thin - a rotten 1/2" ice cap on 6-12" of hoar, and sometimes (sometimes) an inch or two of ice below that. Ice pro is scarce and shaky - all of our placements were Screamered and they still probably would have blown. Lots of traversing was required on P2. Due to extra traversing we had to simul on P1 and P2 to get to belay stations. P3 was beautiful, thick until the top (moss and grass to top out), 3+ first half, 4 last third, right side beautiful. We blew lots of rotten ice down the route - I can't imagine being below another party in these conditions. Thinner than usual (so says my partner). Dec 9, 2002
As for AC's remark (12.2.02) of busting trail only to be passed and pelted by another party: we are reminded that ingrates remain. Expecting someone to not send ice down, however big or small, is unreasonable regardless of what they say. Gravity dictates that the lower person protect thy buttocks. Besides, you know what it's like when you need a good stick. Swing and bombs away. Dialogue can work wonders. Pleasantly engaging them in a brief chat to exchange plans and wants IS reasonable. Expect nothing and you won't be disappointed. Try cashing-in your trail-busting chip. Maybe they will offer something (food or a puff) in exchange for the pass. An initial good vibe might be contagious. ac Jan 29, 2003
Route in great shape now. Had the route to ourselves on a Saturday! We found the "crux" pitch to be easier than the second pitch, fairly low angled and solid placements.
P1 - WI2 (soloed)P2 - WI3+, steep moves between ledges, difficult to protect well.P3 - steep snow (soloed) P4 - "crux" WI3, more sustained than previous pitches, but [relatively] low angled with solid placements and good pro. Was expecting much harder.
Gear: 6-8 screws of various lengths + small nuts/RPs for the belay below the crux pitch. Bring screamers! Oct 31, 2004
All [Mixed Up] was no different, we arrived with another party early and started up [parallel] lines. Since ours was a little tougher and they climbed the std. route as one pitch we opted to finish with the fat standard line (they finished while we were on p1 to the right). By this time many parties were below, and the race was on for who got the standard finish.
I did start a significant wind slab slide walking off the top of [All Mixed Up] and am happy to be here today as the snow cracked above me and i somehow held my ground as many blocks slid past me and down the route. Luckily, no one was on the last pitch, especially solo, as that would have been bad. But then again, its dangerous to climb below others, if you put yourself in that situation, you suffer the consequences. Be careful, its crowded. If you show up late, its probably best to alter plans and climb something else, or be potentially subject to falling objects, including snow avalanches. Nov 17, 2004
Boulder, CO
Pinewood Springs
Added a fixed pin on rock wall above last pitch.
--Ross Dec 18, 2006
WOW...!! It is a long way up to the route and breaking trail is for "the burly" only.
The first two pitches were (and usually are) thin offering regular in 1/4in purchase, especially pulling the bulges. Pitch three is easy WI4-. A 70m rope allows the route to be done in three pitches.
This route is a big day for weekend warriors and a great route for those that like alpine mountain routes. Car to car is 6-12 hours with most time being approach, descent, and return to the car. The actual climbing is relatively short---about 2-3 hours.
The descent on climber's left is not obvious and seems to go on forever...not recommened at dark even with headlamps. Dec 23, 2011
Centennial, CO
climbing.com/exclusive/base… Jan 18, 2012