Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 45,392 total · 207/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


154 Opinions

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Description

This is a combination of 2 submissions from 2002 (the earlier entry retaining the contributor status):

I can't believe no one put this classic in the database already. This is the obvious, beautiful couloir left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. Most years by June the melt/freeze cycle will provide the two short mixed sections the make up the cruxes, and narrowings in the couloir make for some of the most beautiful alpine ice you'll ever climb. Earlier most years its a snow slog, later and you'll hike a lot of scree. Descend toward the Loft, and find the traversing ledge to bypass any steep ice. A must-do alpine route, even with the crowds!

From Nate Christiansen:

This beautiful couloir starts about 500' below and left of Flying Buttress on a grade 2 snow field. The field eventually steepens and narrows after about 500 or 600 feet, right at the base of Flying Buttress. Winter conditions are great for the first half, but the spring conditions will be the best. No belay will be needed the first half. Rope up when couloir begins. Dry tool most the way up until you hit a view off to your right. If you want to exit with bad weather, now is the time. Rap slings are all over the first half. The second half provides the short crux. When the couloir ends, you will be about 300' from the summit. The easiest thing to do now is to summit and find cairns while hiking west towards Long's Peak. The cairns will lead you just east of the huge avalanche-prone Apron. Switch-back down while following the rock marking until you hit the lower section of the Apron. Here, glissading is doable and fun after the climb.

Protection

A light set of nuts, a couple cams, and a couple screws should be all you need.

From Nate Christiansen:
Small/med stoppers with some small-med/hand sized cams. Late spring will require some screws. 11cm should do fine.

Photos