Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 42,532 total · 204/month
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a combination of 2 submissions from 2002 (the earlier entry retaining the contributor status):

I can't believe no one put this classic in the database already. This is the obvious, beautiful couloir left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. Most years by June the melt/freeze cycle will provide the two short mixed sections the make up the cruxes, and narrowings in the couloir make for some of the most beautiful alpine ice you'll ever climb. Earlier most years its a snow slog, later and you'll hike a lot of scree. Descend toward the Loft, and find the traversing ledge to bypass any steep ice. A must-do alpine route, even with the crowds!

From Nate Christiansen:

This beautiful couloir starts about 500' below and left of Flying Buttress on a grade 2 snow field. The field eventually steepens and narrows after about 500 or 600 feet, right at the base of Flying Buttress. Winter conditions are great for the first half, but the spring conditions will be the best. No belay will be needed the first half. Rope up when couloir begins. Dry tool most the way up until you hit a view off to your right. If you want to exit with bad weather, now is the time. Rap slings are all over the first half. The second half provides the short crux. When the couloir ends, you will be about 300' from the summit. The easiest thing to do now is to summit and find cairns while hiking west towards Long's Peak. The cairns will lead you just east of the huge avalanche-prone Apron. Switch-back down while following the rock marking until you hit the lower section of the Apron. Here, glissading is doable and fun after the climb.


A light set of nuts, a couple cams, and a couple screws should be all you need.

From Nate Christiansen:
Small/med stoppers with some small-med/hand sized cams. Late spring will require some screws. 11cm should do fine.


Jim D.  
Anyone know about conditions yet on Dreamweaver or other "alpine" routes nearby? Thanks. Apr 10, 2002
Climbed Dreamweaver up to the escape behind the Flying Buttress on April 28. High winds and some some during the 26th, 27th, and 28th have left lots of unconsolidated snow behind. We were postholing to depths of 1 to 2 ft with sections of pure wading. The steeper narrow sections were also unconsolidated snow w/ lots of (loose) rock exposed. Expect falling rock if following another party up this route.

On the descent we got a good look at Dark Star. It looked to fairly full of snow, but appears to be unconsolidated. The gully leading up to Dark Star was unconsolidated snow.

The Right Chimney has no snow in it.

Talked to fellow who climbed Lamb's Slide on Apr 28. He also found unconsolidated snow, but the postholing was not as bad on on Dreamweaver.

Basically, we found winterlike conditions up there. The new snow will require a couple of freeze/thaw cycles to firm up.

There are a couple of small water ice smears coming off the Broadway and there is still water ice in Peacock Falls. We saw no water ice in Dreamweaver or Dark Star. My guess is that the chances of any real water ice forming in any of these routes is very slim. I hope I am wrong. Apr 29, 2002
Climbed Dreamweaver on May 5th but have been procrastinating. We encountered packed snow conditions and were punching in about to our ankles through most of the route. Overall, it was a spectacular route but lacked any true ice. There were a few short sections of rock along the way where you are forced to pull over some short steps. May 16, 2002
Went to Long's Peak yesterday (5/18) beautiful day, sun til late afternoon, w/ light winds. We went up Lamb's Slide, w/ the intent for Broadway to Kiener's. Snow was good up Lamb's, good steps in ankle deep consild. At Broadway cut off we saw 2 parties of 2 turning back from the [roadway traverse due to bad snow condit. We went up Lamb's a bit more and found deeper unconsild. Snow, punching through to the gray alpine ice below. (Unconsild. snow was 10+" deep) the reports from other climbers bailing said Broadway was the same way. one last note... we watched BIG slides come off Kiener's (every 10 min...) and shoot over Broadway to Mill's. Pretty much did this the whole time in sun. Cory Fleagle, Boulder Co May 19, 2002
DW is going fast. Where the upper couloir should be all ice, its snow with mixed steps, one of which is a tight chimney/chockstone that's not too fun. Rumor is its the worst its been in years. May 20, 2002
Did this route yesterday, it yielded no ice but made for a lot of fun drytooling 5.5 terrain. Can't wait to do it this spring with some ice. Dec 5, 2002
Any one seen the ice conditions on Dreamweaver since the storm last week, i.e. is it settling? Mar 26, 2003
Climbed it Friday, April 11, 2003. No ice present - all snow which made it harder, but not impossible. It was a fun climb. There was no avalanche danger, most snow was pretty well packed. The gully was a little powdery. This was the first time I climbed in the area and didn't research the descent well and that was a mistake. Do your homework.

Steve Line Apr 14, 2003
Oh, and here's a nice set of Dreamweaver pictures somebody put on the web: boulder.swri.edu/~throop/im… Apr 14, 2003
Jim D.  
Does anyone have recent info on conditions for Dreamweaver? Thanks. Apr 27, 2003
Climbed Dreamweaver on Friday. All snow conditions. Did not use crampons, ropes or pro. Three Chimneys of rock were the only real challenges, but very climbable. The weather was very warm up there all of last week through the past weekend meaning conditions will change quickly. I expect to see some alpine ice forming in the next two weeks.

Snow (well consolidated) May 19, 2003
Mark D.
Santa Fe
Mark D.   Santa Fe
Dreamweaver this past Friday and it was a complete snow climb except for three short rock chimneys. We did not use crampons, ropes or pro and it took about 3.5 hours to summit from our tent in the Meeker Cirque. Upon our hike out Saturday afternoon we noticed that the snow pack was diminishing greatly above treeline. My impression was that avalanche danger is not too bad as long as you are off the steep angles by mid-afternoon. Alpine Ice should start forming if the sunny, dry days persist. I imagine Dark Star was mostly snow as well. The Loft was nice and the rock band was downclimbable without a rope. That may change soon as the snow melts.

Dreamweaver this past Friday and it was a complete snow climb except for three short rock chimneys. We did not use crampons, ropes or pro and it took about 3.5 hours to summit from our tent in the Meeker Cirque. Upon our hike out Saturday afternoon we noticed that the snow pack was diminishing greatly above treeline. My impression was that avalanche danger is not too bad as long as you are off the steep angles by mid-afternoon. Alpine Ice should start forming if the sunny, dry days persist. I imagine Dark Star was mostly snow as well. The Loft was nice and the rock band was downclimbable without a rope. That may change soon as the snow melts. May 19, 2003
Did this route on 5/24. Great snow conditions except for a few rock steps - one in the lower part and a couple in the upper section. No rope, no pro - just perfect snow conditions and many thanks to the parties in front of us for the steps! We counted three other parties (or 8 others) ahead of our group of three. We summited around 11:45AM.-

Watch the decent if you come off the Loft via. the normal ledges. The snow was turning to mashed potatoes at that point and made for an "interesting" downclimb. In hindsight, we felt a short rappel would have been a better option to get to a little safer position on the ledge. An earlier start may have helped too. We left the TH at around 4:45AM.

I'll try and post some pics soon.

Great climb!Mike May 25, 2003
We did Dream Weaver on 6/8/03.

We started fairly early and found hard packed snow most of the way.

There is a small rock step at the beginning of the lower section and a 30 ft rock step before the notch where the Flying Buttress ends. No chimney yet, although a deep hole on the upper step signalled that it will be appearing soon.

The upper section also had two rock steps. At the beginning and at the end of the "ribbon". They were both small.

There was a little ice on the rock steps but nothing to get too excited about .

We found the need to put on our crampons early due to the hard snow conditions but only used one ice axe. We belayed a couple of the steps with rock gear although they proved to be easier than they looked (5.0-5.2?).

We summited by 9am and found the snow was rapidly turning into slush. It was a wet ride down the [Loft]. We saw at least 6 parties on the climb including ours. Some folks we starting up it at 11am!

Fun climb.

Cheers, WT Jun 9, 2003
Climbed it on 6-14. Snow was soft in many places, icy in a few. Put on crampons about 2/3 of the way up. (Was on the route from roughly 6:30 to 10:30.) Found about four small rock steps that were not too hard, but I found a second tool helpful on a couple of them. the main "ledge" area of the loft decent was very wet, loose and snowy. It seemed sketchy to me so we belayed a traverse of maybe 100 feet. Jun 14, 2003
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
Lots of folks on Dreamweaver today. Counted at least 10. Snow was hard enough to need crampons from the bottom of the first snow field. Mostly it is a snow climb with ice on the couple of rock steps. Overall, it is in very good shape for climbing. Good steps are kicked in all the way up. Was on the summit by 8:30 AM. The snow on the Loft was pretty soft, but made for a very good butt slide. Use the ramp on the right side of the Loft to get down. Look for cairns. Jun 15, 2003
Peter, how long do you feel this climb will be in, close to its current condition, w/mainly snow up the couloir? Any ideas? Jun 26, 2003
Peter Gram
Portland, OR
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  
Dan - I just saw your comment today, so this maybe to late to be of use. By now, this route will defintely be a lot of rock in the lower section and very icy up high. In the end of June, there was already a tricky spot where we had to dry tool up about 15 feet of rock. Jul 11, 2003
This is a great climb. Climbed it on 6/23/03, and conditions were great. Good snow down low, and ice up high. We roped up for almost the whole climb, so it took us a while. Although, we simul-climbed a decent amount above the Flying Buttress. Which, was where I felt the crux was.

Also, I felt this was a great first alpine/ice lead (it was for me). I was able to protect the whole thing with rock gear. I felt pretty secure, most of the way up. It was a little insecure up higher were there was ice, but the pro was good, it's not too steep, and the conditions were great. I took 2 short, technical tools, but I only used 1.

Phenomenal route. Jul 16, 2003
The Neptune employee actually finished the route and said it was a nightmare of loose snow and not a lick of ice. Nov 21, 2003
I did that route a few years ago in similar condition at the same time of the year - pure dry tooling and some open hand climbing the whole way, save for a 20 foot section of thin ice in the back of a chimney at one point. The outrage was that the chinmey was too narrow and I couldn't get to the ice! So I ended up dry tooling even that section. It was perhaps more interesting and challenging as a result. The point is - if you go up there expecting it to be a dry tool fest, it can be enjoyable. But if you go expecting a snow/ice climb then, yes, you will be dissappointed. Wait for spring to do Dreamweaver if you don't want to do any rock climbing on it. Nov 21, 2003
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
Jason Carter   Monument, CO
12/6/03: Lower part of route has good snow for kicking steps and front pointing. There is very little ice anywhere on the route. Crampons and axes are still necessary for grapling with the frozen dirt and snow covered rock. All the difficulties consist of constrictions in the gully and overcoming chockstones of various dimensions and position. All 7 constrictions, I think 4 on the lower section of the route and 3 on the upper section, protect well with stoppers, and are mostly overcome with 2-3 moves up to 5.4 difficulty. Rack up with a full set of stoppers.

After exiting the upper section, continue straight up towards Meeker's summit and then break to the North. If you break North too soon you'll end up on slabs that want to spit you off the hill.

The route is longer than it appears. I'd say a classic due to the magnificent vistas of Meeker, The Flying Buttress and Longs as well as the not difficult, but at times puzzling cruxes. Dec 11, 2003
Did Dreamweaver on 5/8/04. The couloir is all snow and rock, virtually no ice. We came with a light rack and rope, but they never left the packs. I would expect that this may change quickly as the snow seemed to be disappearing before our eyes. But for now the route is in great M2+ conditions.

The descent is also more straightforward than it appears. Head for the apparent weakness between the cliffs below the loft and the cliffs below the summit of Meeker. Keep your eyes peeled for the cairns that guide you to the ledge that traverses the cliffband. This is key to a straightforward descent. Once below the ledge/cliffband, you can walk on snow all the way to the goblin forest tent sites. If you start early, I would recommend avoiding the temptation to carry snowshoes. We left the parking lot at 2:20, started the couloir at 5:30, summited at 8, and were back at the trailhead at noon. All snow was still solid, but starting to get cruddy. If you start later, the snowshoes may be more useful, but why start later? May 9, 2004
Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
We climbed Dreamweaver this Saturday. The route had little ice as this was almost a complete snow climb, but still fun. My friend lost his digital camera near the ridge, so if someone finds it please contact me. Jun 28, 2004
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
My friend Aaron invited me to climb the route July 5, 2004. We got to the route about an hour after sunrise. The snow was a little soft on the easy slope before the colouir narrows and obligates you to drytool up some rock. It must not be getting cold enough at night to freeze layers deeper than a few inches. In any case, there is very little real ice on the climb currently. Some ice exists atop a few of the stepped runs, while there will be snow at the bottom. The route might be better done with one long mountain axe to give you a self snow belay with the shaft plunged as you climb. Granular snowfall peppered us in the early afternoon, which seems to be this month's weather pattern. Jul 5, 2004
John Kelley
Sedona, AZ
John Kelley   Sedona, AZ
Did the route a about a week and a half ago, about 1/3 of the route has melted out. Top sections still had decent snow & ice. Crampons were useful, just brought one axe. Great route! Jul 28, 2004
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
I'd like to climb this within the next 2 weeks. Please post conditions here. I'm wondering if snow/ice has accumulated with this latest batch of weather. Thanks. Sep 22, 2004
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
Holy Crap!! What an awesome route!! Did it today as my first mountaineering route. Took us 15 hours car to car, which might be slow to some, but it was excellent. The route is covered in snow, sometimes up to knee/thigh height. The snow is good quality and not too avalanche prone yet. Not much ice in, only 1 pitch had some ice, but it was good! Snowed off and on, but didn't accumulate. Descent is tricky, but just look for the 1st of two ledge systems. on the face connecting Meeker and The Loft. This is the one that connects to The Loft. Don't go all the way to the cliffs like we did! Oct 3, 2004
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
Not much ice yet, just a little on one of the middle pitches, but snowfields are in all the way. Oct 3, 2004
Bryan Gartland
Helena, MT
Bryan Gartland   Helena, MT
Tim Barton and I had a go at Dreamweaver on Saturday; either we missed the window of ideal conditions or folks have been overly enthusiastic in their reports over the last week or so!

We only saw about 30-40' of ice on the entire route, the rest was more of a snow slog with dry tooling at the steep sections. Avy conditions still seemed stable but the snow was thigh-deep in most of the couloir.

Darkstar and the Notch Couloir appeared to be in about the same shape as Dreamweaver but we didn't get great looks at them. Oct 4, 2004
Climbed Dreamweaver on Wednesday, 8 June 2005. Snow conditions were great. We had some worries about the avalache conditions but it proved to be negligible.Very little rock fall on the route in very high winds. There had been a slide from the Loft but It was very stable when we descended it. What are called the first and third cruxs were solid AI2 ice the second crux was melted and we climbed the rocks to the right. If you plan on protecting the route bring short screws and rock gear. On the descent the cairns were confusing continue to your left and descend the Loft. Jun 9, 2005
Shane Zentner
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I was on Dreamweaver this past Saturday. The upper pitches have ICE, the lower pitches consist of snow. The Loft was unstable. Started hiking at 2:20 am and returned to the parking lot at noon. Jun 24, 2005
Hamish Gowans
Golden, CO
Hamish Gowans   Golden, CO
Hey AC, If you used a profile, I could have emailed you directly. I was hoping to go check out the high country (maybe Dreamweaver) this weekend since conditions are certainly ripe. You can email me through the site. Sep 15, 2005
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
I am looking to go do this route in April. Anyone been up there recently can provide a conditions report? Snow, ice, talus?
Any comments would be helpful. Thanks! Mar 9, 2006
Boulder, CO
RalphE   Boulder, CO
Ascended DW on a blustery tax day, 15 April 2006, and found it to be a snow climb. Light snow fell most of the morning, and so kicked off some fun slab breaks descending the Loft. Had the whole cirque to myself. Apr 17, 2006
Andy Leach
Denver, CO
Andy Leach   Denver, CO
We shot a short video of our climb of Dreamweaver Couloir on May 27, 2006. You can view it here: leachfam.com/securearea/1mo… May 30, 2006
Luis Barandiaran
Longmont, CO
Luis Barandiaran   Longmont, CO
Very nice website, Andy. I enjoyed watching several of your movies. What software did you use to put it together? Jan 23, 2007
Andy Leach
Denver, CO
Andy Leach   Denver, CO
Thanks Luis. I just use iMovie which came with my Mac. It's pretty basic, but it does everything I need it to do. Jan 24, 2007
I'm thinking about giving this a shot around mid-March. Can anyone give me some ideas on the best gear to take as well as speculation on the route? Jan 15, 2008
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Has anyone been up to Dreamweaver lately and know the general conditions?

Thanks! Apr 25, 2008
Anyone been on Dreamweaver recently and have any info on conditions? May 29, 2008
jeffrey heddings
jeffrey heddings   denver,CO
Ascended July 3. Not much ice, too busted most places to get a stick. Might be seeing to much traffic to form up like in past, although fun and not too hard, 5.5. Jul 12, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Thanks, Don, for the route conditions, that help reinforce my solo commitment. May 29, 2009
Chad Volk
Arvada, CO
Chad Volk   Arvada, CO
My climbing partner and I each lost an ice axe in an avalanche on the inital snowfield on 10-05-09. One was a BD Rage and one was a BD Viper (old style). If found, please let me know. Oct 7, 2009
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
Casey Bernal   Wheat Ridge, CO
Chad - Were you the pair mention in the CAIC report that I posted here: Dreamweaver Avalanche?

If so, glad to hear you both were OK. Hope you find your gear, too. Oct 7, 2009
Did Dreamweaver/Mt Meeker yesterday 12/28/10. Originally I just went there to see if it would be "in" for a climb this weekend but upon closer inspection saw that it was in prime shape. I had been wondering about this route since I moved to Boulder a year ago and even wondered if it would be possible to ski?
With the conditions I had yesterday, I quickly realized it was now or who knows when. The weather was perfect - fairly cold but barely a breeze and blue skies. The first long slope was easy with perfect styrofoam snow. There wasn't a hint of ice in the first choke. The next slope went just as well with minimal but sufficient snow coverage. Past the Buttress, the next slope was steeper but just as good as the first one and the final mixed section was snow covered as well. After topping out and weighing the options, I decided to "give it a go". I played around on the top slopes, zig zagged down the slabs and gingerly down climbed the final mixed section. Once below this, the first "real" steep section was the crux of the descent. Past the Butress and another snow slope presented no problems followed by the lower mixed section which I down climbed as well. From here is was "all good" and I could let 'em run a bit on the main slope which was firm but just right to sink in the edges.
All in all it was pretty sweet and totally unexpected.
Hopefully the weather and conditions will remain favorable - I have a few others in mind.
Cheers 'n' Happy to New Year to all.

Dec 29, 2010
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
Conditions update??? Apr 11, 2011
We left the TH at 5 am on 06/04/11 and put on crampons around 7:30/8 am to ascend the 600’ of snow to the start of the climb. We spotted one two-person party ahead of us. We mainly dry tooled through the first obstacle - a pile of chunky, semi-vertical rocks - before reaching the bench at the top of the Flying Buttress. Above that bench, we hit the route’s most technical part – a 13’-long narrow chute w/ some good dry tool placements w/ crampon smearing on the left wall; we weren’t roped-up, so my partner built a quick anchor and dropped me a cordellete (for me to have a back-up). The actual 1,500’-route went quickly and easily, with decently firm steps and occasionally punching-through to mid-thigh. (The high was 69 degrees in near-by Allenspark.) Around 11:30 am, we left our packs and begin the traverse (on the left side of the ridge) to Meeker. That’s when the day became challenging for me, as that I really needed to trust my crampons on the rock. Then back to our packs for the long traverse across the sloping, dry, huge slabs from the top of DW towards the Loft Descent. That was challenging for me descending with crampons on the rocks - it wasn't very steep, but there were huge cliffs below. Then we took off our crampons and descended the dry boulder fields. We put them back on when we hit the snow and downclimbed the heavy snow, trying to follow the cairns. Once finally down on the snow (Loft’s apron where we could glissade), we realized our mistake in the Loft Descent: we overshot the standard ramp (that nicely spits you out on the snow) and ended-up on the incorrect ramp below it, which involved an exposed traverse to grassy ledges - we set-up a handline for that. From there, we backed-up some pitons and rapped to the Loft’s apron, barely making it w/ a 50m rope. By then, we were a party of four as that we caught two others. While rapping, a big rock got knocked-off one of the ledges. We were back on Chasm Trail around 5:30 pm and didn’t post-hole too much back to the TH (which we sleepily reached before dark), tromping through a brief section (200’ or so) of full on, thick mud near the TH. This was my first route in the Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque, and I loved it.

Jun 5, 2011
michael voth
Ft. Collins, CO
michael voth   Ft. Collins, CO
Climbed yesterday on March 31st, 2012. No ice to be found and very little snow hopeful of forming ice. Climbed it in pitches due to slightly overhanging chockstones (easy).
Apr 1, 2012
Jon Sullivan
Boulder, CO
Jon Sullivan   Boulder, CO
Any beta on descent? Also, is the 600 ft wide birth snow gully-esque feature that is your initial approach to the route pretty skiable? Looks like a good time. Thanks! Mar 29, 2015
Boulder, Co
Xam   Boulder, Co
Did the first two steps to the escape out behind the Flying Buttress yesterday. Still unconsolidated powder wallowing to dry rock...give it a few more weeks. Apr 16, 2018
Climbed 4/28
The snow was a mixture of unconsolidated powder and firm crust in the early morning. No ice yet. Snowshoes aren't needed. We had rope and pro but never needed it. Apr 30, 2018
Greg Gawel
Jackson Heights, NY
Greg Gawel   Jackson Heights, NY
When is best time to do this climb to find it in prime condition? Feb 26, 2019