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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4 |
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Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+ |
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Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Crazy Train T WI5 |
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Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5- |
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Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2 |
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Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 |
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Duncan Did it First T M5 |
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Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow |
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Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+ |
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Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3 |
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Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow |
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Joe's Solo WI3+ M3 |
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Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow |
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Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow |
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Left of Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 |
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North Chimney T M4 |
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North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 |
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Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6 |
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Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R |
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Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R |
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South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R |
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Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi |
| Page Views: | 6,011 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Sievers on Oct 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.
P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.
P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.
city, state
Lafayette, Colorado
Pinewood Springs
Arvada, CO
Pitch 1, WI3 M4 180 feet, fixed belay (left side) 2 pins and nut equalized by 5mm cord.
Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, fixed belay (center) old webbing behind block.
Pitch 3, leaving the belay stance.
Pitch 3, We climbed a variation out of chimney exiting upper left side.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, follow crack out of left side of chimney, thin slab for 90 feet, new belay with 2 pins/6mm cord and screw gate. Nov 5, 2012