Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi
Page Views: 7,121 total · 43/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.

P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.

Location

The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.

Protection

Full single rock rack plus 4-6 stubby ice screws, some pins.

Photos