Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi
Page Views: 9,077 total · 43/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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16 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.

P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.

Location Suggest change

The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.

Protection Suggest change

Full single rock rack plus 4-6 stubby ice screws, some pins.