Avg: 3.2 from 10 votes
Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
|Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4|
|Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+|
|Columbine Falls T WI3|
|Crazy Train T WI5|
|Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-|
|Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2|
|Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2|
|Duncan Did it First T M5|
|Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+|
|Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+|
|Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3|
|Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5|
|Joe's Solo WI3+ M3|
|Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow|
|Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow|
|Left of Columbine Falls T WI3|
|Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3|
|North Chimney T M4|
|North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3|
|Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow|
|Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6|
|Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R|
|Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R|
|South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R|
|Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3|
|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi|
|Page Views:||5,766 total, 43/month|
|Shared By:||Greg Sievers on Oct 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.
P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.