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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque

Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4
Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+
Columbine Falls T WI3
Crazy Train T WI5
Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5-
Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2
Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2
Duncan Did it First T M5
Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+
Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+
Flying Dutchman, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2-3
Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5
Joe's Solo WI3+ M3
Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow
Left of Columbine Falls T WI3
Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3
North Chimney T M4
North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3
Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow
Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6
Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R
Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R
South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R
Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi
Page Views: 5,766 total, 43/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Oct 23, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.

P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.

Location

The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.

Protection

Full single rock rack plus 4-6 stubby ice screws, some pins.

Photos

Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  WI5 M6+
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  WI5 M6+
Climbed Fields Nov. 4, 2012:


Pitch 1, WI3 M4 180 feet, fixed belay (left side) 2 pins and nut equalized by 5mm cord.


Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, fixed belay (center) old webbing behind block.


Pitch 3, leaving the belay stance.


Pitch 3, We climbed a variation out of chimney exiting upper left side.


Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, follow crack out of left side of chimney, thin slab for 90 feet, new belay with 2 pins/6mm cord and screw gate. Nov 5, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
Two icons Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi, did they do other routes together? Oct 12, 2012
Rick Casey
Lafayette, Colorado
Rick Casey   Lafayette, Colorado
I was at a CMC slideshow recently where Jack Roberts (author of the Colorado Ice guidebook) described this as one of his favorite easy mixed routes, when it's in. Will have to try it sometime.... Feb 16, 2008
alpinglow
city, state
alpinglow   city, state
Fun climbing everytime I've been up there. Aug 22, 2007