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Routes in Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Alexander's Chimney T WI4 M4 |
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Chasm Lake Outlet WI2+ |
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Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Crazy Train T WI5 |
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Dark Star (probably not Right Chimney) T WI3+ M5- |
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Dovetail Right AI2-3 M1-2 |
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Dreamweaver T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 |
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Duncan Did it First T M5 |
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Eighth Route, The T WI3- M3+ Mod. Snow |
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Field's Chimney T WI5 M6+ |
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Flying Dutchman, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 |
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Gully Left of Zumie's Thumb aka Smith's Route T M5 Steep Snow |
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Joe's Solo WI3+ M3 |
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Kiener's Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow |
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Lamb's Slide T Easy Snow |
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Left of Columbine Falls T WI3 |
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Martha T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI2+ M2-3 |
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North Chimney T M4 |
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North Face / Cables Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3 |
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Notch Couloir, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Mod. Snow |
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Schobinger's Cracks T WI5 M6 |
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Ship's Prow Ice T WI5 M5 R |
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Smear of Fear T WI5 M6 R |
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South Face / Lady Washington T WI5 M5-6 R |
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Zumie's Chimney T WI3 M3 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi |
| Page Views: | 6,051 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Sievers on Oct 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description [Suggest Change]
This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.
P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.
P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.
Location [Suggest Change]
The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.
city, state
Lafayette, Colorado
Pinewood Springs
Arvada, CO
Pitch 1, WI3 M4 180 feet, fixed belay (left side) 2 pins and nut equalized by 5mm cord.
Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, fixed belay (center) old webbing behind block.
Pitch 3, leaving the belay stance.
Pitch 3, We climbed a variation out of chimney exiting upper left side.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, follow crack out of left side of chimney, thin slab for 90 feet, new belay with 2 pins/6mm cord and screw gate. Nov 5, 2012